The Margin is a bit of an ice cream purist. Normally Italian ice-cream is the best but the Margin has to draw the line at concoctions being invented by some Italian gelaterie. It seems ice cream makers in Italia are no longer happy with vanilla, chocolate and fruit flavours; more bizarre flavourings are now regularly on offer. Fancy an artichoke icecream? Not really. How about aubergine? No chance. Beans and onion? Forget it. And as for baccala - dried cod ice-cream - the Margin prefers to get his cod from Italian chippers.