Simone Rocha marked the 10th anniversary of her brand on Monday at London fashion week, with her first runway show in more than 18 months for spring/summer 2022. Staged in St Bartholomew’s Church, in Spitalfields, the venue was in keeping with her location choices over the seasons, which have included churches, palaces and a Victorian theatre.

In a year that has seen her sellout collaboration with Swedish giant H&M, continuing collaboration with Italian luxury brand, Moncler, the launch of an extended ecommerce offering, the reopening of her three shops in London, New York and Hong Kong, and the birth of her second daughter, Rocha’s continued success has also been highlighted by an installation currently running in London’s Dover Street Market, the retailer that has championed her work for a decade.

Her collection for spring – which reflects on the relationship between mother and daughter – was more ceremonial in spirit, with its ruffled white lace ensembles, frothy tulle skirts and oversized collars, grounded, as always, with tough footwear. Her familiar curved silhouettes, sloping shoulders and billowing sleeves registered on everything from red patent leather jackets to soft floral or black lace dresses with decorative pearl and crystal embellishment. Emerald tiaras and glittering chandelier earrings accentuated the fundamental femininity of her approach and continuing worldwide appeal.

Next April she will be curating a major exhibition in Lismore Castle, due to run until October. Dedicated to the female gaze, it will include works of art, photography, sculpture and textiles by women, with pieces from Louise Bourgeois, a long-time source of inspiration for Rocha, and the Irish artist Genieve Figgis among others.