We packed the boogie boards from the pound shop. 
Pure chuffed with the sun, the long spin out 
of Dublin, pulled west to the Atlantic. 
We piled out of the car at Spanish Point. 
The waves were something else – three, four foot high – 
taunting us to come in and try our luck. 
Togs on, surf leashes strapped, the pause before 
a shoreline dash and we waded out, out.

I was nearly knocked off me feet, the pull 
was full-moon strong, I'd to hold firm, ready 
meself, hands gripped the board, the wave curled high,
I leaped on, heaved, kept the head and boogied 
the surf all the way back into the shore – 
only to turn and go back out for more.

Rachael Hegarty has published two collections of poetry Flight Paths Over Finglas and May Day 1974 (both Salmon Poetry)