For the Irish living in Norway, St Patrick's Day can be a cold, lonely time, but the Nordic reserve is starting to thaw, writes Audrey Andersen in Oslo
The Dubliner pub in the medieval part of Oslo is as close an approximation to a Dublin pub as you can get. It is a much-needed focal point for the Irish/Norwegian community. Social isolation for the Irish in Norway is not as big an issue as it once was. The country's social rigidity is a double bind for most Irish people; as recently as 1986 a Norwegian book of etiquette was still in circulation. In terms of national character, Irish familiarity and Nordic reserve are often perceived as being at opposite ends of the spectrum.
When Maria Scharffenberg arrived here in 1969 aged 19, the culture that greeted her was a much more homogeneous one. "Things were very different at that time," says Maria. "It was lonely, and casually popping in for a cup of tea uninvited was unheard-of." The setting up of a Norwegian/Irish support group made socialising a bit easier. Norway and Ireland share "ancient links" that date back to the arrival of Vikings to Irish shores some 1,200 years ago. Norway is one of Ireland's largest trading partners and the reintroduction of direct flights has seen a significant growth in tourism and cultural exchange.
The strengthening of ties between Ireland and Norway is reflected in the Irish embassy's support of the Oslo St Patrick's Day parade next Saturday. According to official figures, there are 500 Irish people registered as living here. The unofficial estimate, however, is around 1,000, with the majority concentrated in Oslo. The capital also has the distinction of being the only Nordic city to have an official St Patrick's Day parade.
Bernadette Hansen, vice-chairwoman of the Oslo St Patrick's Day Parade Association, is married to a Norwegian. She came here in 1979 and remembered her mother's startled reaction when she told her she was moving to Norway. "She thought I was going to the moon", she says. Today, that sense of distance and isolation has been alleviated to some extent by the provision of direct flights and budget travel. In the past, visits home were often confined to yearly visits, usually during the summer.
Cork-born Clare Healy's lasting impressions of Norway are of the stunning scenery and untamed nature. She spent three years here but returned to Cork in 1994. One deciding factor was the isolation she felt. "I missed the social side of Irish life," she explains. She continues to travel to Norway three or four times a year on business and has since established firm and lasting Norwegian friendships. "The flip side, if you like, to Norwegian reserve is that while it may take longer to form friendships, the bonds are often stronger and less superficial."
There are some minor irritants to living here, such as the fact that there is a general lack of manners. Holding doors open is rare and queue jumping seems to be a national pastime. In many respects, though, the Ireland that is often nostalgically remembered no longer exists. Ireland is increasingly becoming more secular and materialistic. Paradoxically, Norway has a longer history of secularism but there is evidence of a residual spiritualism. For example, Sundays here are treated to a degree of reverence reminiscent of a rural pre-Celtic Tiger Ireland. Shops do not open on Sundays and a law, introduced in 1995, restricts noisy activities on Sundays.
For Mark Fleming from Carlow, it is the social democratic principle that underpins Norwegian society that he finds the most appealing. State-funded childcare, for instance, is unparalleled. This moral social obligation, enshrined in firm welfare policies, means wealth is more evenly distributed with little absolute poverty. For the fourth year in a row, Norway topped the UN Development Program index (UNDP) as the "world's best place to live". Norway is also one of the least corrupt countries in the world. The Scandinavian commitment to transparency extends to all disclosures of tax liability. In Norway everyone's tax details can be accessed via the Internet. Fleming believes this is essential accountability but Maria Scharffenberg argues that it is an invasion of privacy.
From a purely material point of view, there are very few differences between living here and in Ireland. Food prices can be high but the disparity is not as marked as it once was. Buying wine and spirits also requires a degree of organisation and planning. Wine is only sold in state-controlled shops called "Vinmonopoler".
Despite the cultural differences, attempting to learn the language and embracing at least some of the nation's traditions can be rewarding. Almost all Norwegians speak embarrassingly good English but it does help in the assimilation process if you try to learn the language. State-funded language classes are widely available.
But there will always be aspects of Irish life that will be missed. For instance, it would be nice occasionally to be able to strike up a conversation with a perfect stranger. And a pint of Guinness, at 64 kroner (€7.80) is also almost twice the price of its Dublin counterpart. But it is a price worth paying to salute Norway and the Irish community who have made it their home.
