IN the 16th century, some free expressionist doodled a picture of a ship in the wet plaster n the wall of Corcomroe Abbey in the heart of the Burren in Co Clare. The abbey, now a well preserved ruin, was built in the 12th century by Cistercian monks and it lies half way between Kinvara and Ballyvaughan.
Although the monks are long gone, on Easter Sundays a dawn Mass is celebrated with local musicians and a Pascal bonfire traditions which probably go back way beyond Christianity.
The Burren Ramblers' Guide and Map, produced locally and available at shops and garages, will show you the way by car if you must or by walking route over Abbey Hill, along an road through the Burren.
Expect to see a variety of wild flowers (bring your wild flower book), more butterflies than you've seen since childhood, a spectacular view of Galway Bay and maybe, if you're lucky, even pine marten.
After all that fresh air and culture, head back to Kinvara for something to eat you're in shellfish country and then an evening in one of the pubs where the musical tradition is alive and well. The seisiuin rotates around the pubs but if ifs Saturday it has to be Winkles, where the set dancers just can't restrain themselves.
