THE narrow streets of Athlone are full of shoppers, traffic and quite a few out of towners bent on seeing the sights. Once considered to be a viable candidate for the capital of Ireland, Athlone is, after all, the principal crossing point on the middle Shannon, the main artery linking east and west, so it is a natural stopping off point for people on their way back and forth.
The most attractive part of the town (which is otherwise not remarkable in terms of aesthetic appeal) is the Shannon itself, visible from many different angles and spanned by the sturdy 19th century bridge that connects the two halves of the town. Moored on the docks and plying up and down the river are a number of colourful boats of all shapes and sizes.
. WHERE TO GO FOR INFORMATION
The most arresting spot in the town is the 13th century Norman Castle. Situated on the docks on the western side of the river, the castle is the oldest surviving building in the town, and houses a tourist information centre and shop. There you can buy an excellent guide to the town, the Athlone Tourism Trail, which will send you on a three hour trail of interesting and historical parts of Athlone. The other option is to go on an official walking tour of the town, starting at the castle, but these are available by appointment only.
. WORTH VISITING
The museum in the castle keep includes a collection of early Christian grave slabs, a sheela na-gig, John McCormack's cine camera, the huge lock and key of Athlone's North Gate (demolished in 1844), a whale oil lamp and a whole collection of old irons. Also in the castle is the spanking new visitor's centre, built in 1991 to mark the tercentenary of the 17th century Siege of Athlone (when the town was besieged by Williamite troops). It houses exhibitions on the siege the life of John McCormack and the flora and fauna of the Shannon.
Fans of the jewel bright colours of Harry Clarke's stained glass windows should go to the Friary on Friary Lane, in the centre of the town. Architecture buffs will be interested to see the distinctive blocky shape of the former Ritz cinema, designed by Michael Scott in 1940, now unfortunately long past its ritzy days. It is easily visible as you cross the bridge from the castle.
. WHAT TO BUY
The aromatic Bastion Gallery on Bastion Street near the castle is fill of crafty buys, from chunky sweaters to elfin sculpture, as well as pottery, baskets and jewellery. Athlone Crystal on Pearse Street has an attractive selection of glasses, bowls and vases. Visitors can go upstairs to watch the crystal being cut by Edward Halligan. Customers can commission crystal with special engravings.
Pottery, stripped pine furniture and dried flowers are on sale in Home Thoughts, Irishtown, on the Dublin side of the river.
. WHERE TO STAY
B&Bs, of which there are plenty, cost between £14 and £16 a night (there is also the option of farm house accommodation or self catering cottages not far from the town). There are a variety of hotels, costing from about £30 to £40 a night. These include, in the town, the Royal Hoey Hotel, the Shamrock Lodge and the Prince of Wales Hotel (where Parnell used to stay when he was visiting Athlone). There is also the three star Hodson Bay Hotel, on the shores of Lough Ree, situated beside Athlone Golf Club. The hotel has its own cruiser available for hire.
. WHERE TO EAT
Those with a taste for spicy food should go to the new Indian restaurant, A Taste of India, over Dirty Harry's pub on Mardyke Street. For pub grub, try the Palace, on Market Square, where lunch is £4.95 and evening meals are also served. Conlon's, in the centre of the town, offers an affordable lunch menu at less than a fiver (cheap and cheerful early bird, pre 7 p.m. meals are available, also substantial dinners).
The Left Bank Bistro, on Bastion Street, is painted in cheerful colours and offers a tempting evening menu. A more up market option for dinner is Le Chateau on Abbey Lane, a fine 200 year old building. The early menu (6-7.15 pm.) costs £14 with the later four course dinner costing £20.
The picturesque Glasson Restaurant in nearby Glasson (on the N55) is famed for its food and offers a substantial Sunday lunch menu for £10.95 (children £5.50). The dinner menu costs £17.95. For a "healthy options bistro menu" the Wineport Sailing Centre restaurant nearby offers a two course meal for £14.95 and a three course dinner for £20.
. NIGHT MOVES
Sean's Bar, apparently dating back to 1630 and claiming to be Ireland's oldest bar, is well worth a visit either by day, for a tranquil retreat from the bustle of the town, or in the evening, when there is usually a session of traditional music. Situated behind the castle, on the docks, the front of the building has distinctive conic columns while the were opens on to a charming, flower decked courtyard, backing onto the river.
At the weekends there are different styles of music in the various pubs, including contemporary Irish rock bands in Biddy Mulligan's. On Mondays and Tuesdays there is Irish music in Nut's Corner (Mardyke Street) and Dirty Harry's. Most weekends, there is live music at the various hotels.
The three screen Athlone Cinema (not the Ritz, mentioned above) is over Quinnsworth in Irishtown. The 40 seater Little Theatre, on St Mary's Square, hosts a regular turnover of visiting theatre companies. For the energetic visitor, there are two main nightclubs Ginkel's on Costume Place (which attracts a younger, livelier crowd) and Bozo's, on Dublin Gate Street (more for the over 30s). There is dancing every Sunday night in the Royal Hoey Hotel.
. DAY-TIME EXERTION
The Lough Ree Festival of Golf takes place from next Sunday until August 2nd in the Athlone Golf Club. There is an 18 hole Mini Golf Course at Woodview Mini Goll, Bealnamulla, three miles from Athlone. There is also the Christy O'Connor Jnr designed Glasson Golf and Country Club bordering Lough Ree.
Athlone Leisureworld is on Grace Road (the Galway Road) and has an eight lane bowling alley, a play area for three to 10 year olds, pool and snooker tables (and a gym for members only). Shannonside Gym, on Golden Island, off the Dublin Road is open to the public.
. OTHER ATTRACTIONS IN THE AREA
Athlone is an ideal spot from which to explore the Shannon and picturesque Lough Ree, with all its islands. The Wineport Sailing Centre in Glasson has 12 boats for hire "bare boat" or with instruction. The MV Ross at the Jolly Mariner Marina carries up to 60 on a 90 minute cruise of the Shannon. The marina also has a variety of boats for hire. The Rosanna Viking Ship at The Strand offers twice weekly cruises to Clonmacnoise (four hours round trip, Wednesdays and Thursdays, departing 10 a.m.) and daily cruises around Lough Ree (90 minutes) on a replica of a Viking boat (departing 2.30 p.m. and 4.30 p.m.).
For those in cars, there is a sign posted Lough Ree tour, which takes you to Glasson where, in addition to the Glasson Restaurant, there is also Grogan's old fashioned pub and the Village Tea room.
If you can stand the long detour involved, it is worth driving out to Muckanagh, a dreamy and quiet stretch of shore, with no company other than a few cattle.
Continuing on the circuitous tour, you will happen upon Lissoy Parsonage where Oliver Goldsmith came in 1730 with his family until his father's death in 1,749.
For vintage car and pennyfarthing enthusiasts, beyond Athlone on the Cork road at Ballinahown, there is An Dun Transport and Heritage Museum. .
DID YOU KNOW?
The famous tenor, Count John McCormack, was from Athlone. The house where he spent his formative years on Goldsmith Terrace is still intact but his birthplace (the Bawn) is now the site of a Chinese Restaurant.
