Mince pies...

Marks & Spencer Classic Puff Pastry Mince Pies
€2.99 (49.8c each)

Highs: While it's not clear what is classic about the puff pastry, the texture of these pies is considerably lighter than the competition - and all the more appealing for that. The mincemeat has a boozy flavour, which, while prominent, is not overpowering. There is also a healthy amount of readily discernible fruit in the mix.

Lows: These pies are at the top end of the price scale. And try eating one of them while standing at a civilised mulled-wine party: you're likely to cover yourself, the carpet and possibly the person you're standing next to with puff-pastry crumbs.

Verdict: Nice and light.

Star rating: ****

Dunnes Stores Deep Filled Mince Pies
€1.49 (24.8c each)

Highs: These are much better than you might expect, given their price, and are, without question, the bargain of the bunch. The pastry is the most home-made and authentic of all the pies tried, and the generous dollop of mincemeat is full of flavour.

Lows: You'll need to have a sweet tooth, however, as they taste, even by mince-pie standards, as if they are chock-full of sugar. There is not even the merest taste of alcohol in the mix, and they have a tendency to disintegrate while being separated from their foil cup, which is more than a little irritating.

Verdict: Good and good value.

Star rating: ****

Holly Lane Deep Filled Mince Pies
99c (16.5c each)

Highs: These pies, which come from Aldi, are topped with a fetchingly festive pastry holly leaf, have been branded with a vaguely Christmassy name and are by some distance the cheapest of the test group.

Lows: It's not always true that you get what you pay for. Alas, it is on this occasion - these are pretty dreadful. The pastry is soggy and the innards excessively gloopy and sweet. The mincemeat bears no relation to the fruit from whence it came, and thus it may be a blessing that there is less of it in these pies than any of the others tried.

Verdict: A bit grim.

Star rating: **

Tesco Finest Mince Pies
€3.49 (58.2c each)

Highs: These are the most home-made looking of the four and have more fruit mix (53 per cent). The sugar balance is about right, as the pies are not cloyingly sweet.

This might be because the alcohol has killed the sugar: booze is easily the dominant flavour in these pies.

Lows: They are €2 more expensive than the rival product from Dunnes Stores. Could the extra whiskey really cost that much? These pies sell in Tesco in the UK for just £1.79 (€2.59). There's more air in these, too, but to be fair the pastry case is bigger than the competition.

Verdict: Pretty fine, if a little pricey.

Star rating:***