Even old Ebenezer Scrooge would be hard pressed to resist Christmas in Westport. If ever a town seemed to have been created with the yuletide season in mind, it must be this one. One of the few architecturally-planned towns in Ireland, Westport is beautiful and has kept its period aura and traditional shop fronts while avoiding cutesy pastiche. Widely believed to have been designed and remodelled by Richard Cassels who designed Westport House in 1730 - with further remodelling later carried out by James Wyatt from about 1780 - Westport, with a population of about 4,500, is small, yet uncluttered, deliberate and rather dignified without being intimidating.
Situated at the head of Westport Bay, itself on the south east of Clew Bay, the town's tree-lined mall runs parallel to the River Carrowbeg. Approaching the town, the view is dominated by the distinct quartzite cone of Croagh Patrick, standing out against the clear winter blue sky.
Initially conscripted into joining a cat-hunt, after successfully cornering the animal under a car I was free to investigate Bridge Street, the main shopping area. The first stop is O'Reilly and Turpin, a deceptively small craft shop with an imaginative and diverse range of quality items as well as a policy of buying only Irish-made work. A pair of sandcast bookends from Forde Crafts decorated with a motif inspired by the High Cross at Moone has considerable presence and costs £37.
Also available here is Nicola Murray's exciting designer knitwear range with prices starting at £85 and going to £149. Hand-felted slippers made by Weaving Dreams are stocked with prices ranging from £9.50 to £26.95. Also from Weaving Dreams are felt and ribbon dolls, "Irish Mollies" more folk than "souvenirish", they cost £37.95. Sue Napier's Fat Cat papier-mache-framed mirror range will brighten dark corners. Prices are from £32-£100. Dublin-based German Marianne Klopp is one of the best potters working anywhere and her work with its distinct turquoise-blue glaze is well represented here, as is that of Sligo potter Michael Kennedy. Westportman Dave Benson makes bellows and his hand-made teak, leather and brass creations are on sale here from between £27£38.50.
Looking for something expensive? How about Anthony Scott's dramatic green ceramic horse and rider price £500. A charming selection of Ann Haynes's Animal Craft hand-made porcelain creatures including baby robins, £1.95, mother robin £3.90; sheep in various sizes from £5.95-£7.95; pigs from £4.95£6.95; baby seals £1.95, mother £5.80 and assorted geese at £5.80 are wonderful stocking fillers. Her Christmas critters - mice, bears, owls - will be on sale at the National Crafts Fair of Ireland in Dublin next week. Secrets of the Beehive gift sets containing a jar of wild-flower honey and a beeswax candle at £3.99 would also fit into that stocking.
A Teletubby lookalike adult German male grabs my shoulder, convinced I am his niece from Hamburg. Apparently I ran away "about 10 years ago". Fascinated if bewildered, I shrug, and continue my investigations. Into the famous Foxford Woollen Mills shop established in 1892, where the expected array of fine Foxford goods including rugs, blankets, hats, caps, scarves and men's jackets, are on offer, choice becomes a test of one's nerves and resolve.
A few doors down is Westport's oldest shop, the definitive butchery. Now named Kate McCormack and Sons, the family business, first established in 1847, is into its sixth generation. Even if you don't like meat, the delicatessen offers a range of seasonal foods and trimmings.
Carraig Donn has a comprehensive range of quality Irish gifts, including designer knitwear, pottery by Louis Mulcahy, Stephen Pearce, Nicholas Mosse, Jack O'Patsy and Michael Kennedy. Among the selection of iron work is Dublin Ironcraft candle holders in a variety of sizes and wine racks by John Forkin, including a dramatic hanging one priced £89.95. Initially opened as an antiques business, Carraig Donn moved into knitwear before becoming a general gift store and even has a branch on the Aran Islands.
Further down the street is Hewetson Bros, a traditional fishing tackle shop dating from 1922. Obviously an angler's paradise, there is a superb selection of rods. I've always wanted a traditional fishing creel - made of willow with leather and a canvas strap. They're stocked here, at a bargain £26. Lowe Alpine, Barbour, GoreTex wet weather gear is well represented and the sports wear and outdoor/camping equipment section of the shop has been renamed The Call of the Wild.
On the corner of Bridge Street and the South Mall is McGreevy's, a large newsagents which is more than a large newsagents. Among the wide selection of toys upstairs where Santa Claus Is Coming To Town blasts out, is a bargain Duplo Farmer Bill farm-set with a free tractor priced £34.95. Back up the street is Portwest, another excellent outdoor wear shop, but I've no money left. I'll be back.
Parking is not an issue.
Lunchstop: There is a selection of eating places along the waterfront overlooking the harbour.
Hinterland highlight: Why not take the Ballina road and visit the actual mill of Foxford Woollen Mills, complete with craft and coffee shop?
