I’ve always wanted to roast a whole cauliflower. There’s something wonderfully theatrical about it. I’ve always found it quite daunting, though, relying on one whole vegetable to take centre stage. We all love cauliflower cheese in my house, or a smooth cauliflower purée — it feels unnatural to wander from the path of dishes I know will work and try something new sometimes.
It wasn’t until I read a recipe for whole roast cauliflower in Nicola Crowley and Dvir Nusery’s new book, Middle Eastern Food to Share, that I thought it was finally time to take the plunge. It’s a beautiful cookbook that Nicola and Dvir have created from their lovely deli, Mezze, in the seaside town of Tramore. They’ve shared some of their recipes, including their lavash bread and addictive zhug. That bright green chilli sauce tastes absolutely amazing on most things, from barbecued vegetables to fish.
I was thrilled when they started their Kickstarter campaign to publish this book and eagerly awaited it, and it really doesn’t disappoint. There were several recipes I earmarked for trying right away, which is always a good sign. One that jumped from the pages was the whole roasted cauliflower, served with a gorgeous green tahini sauce.
For my roast cauliflower, I used the same method as Mezze, simmering the vegetable in water first to begin the cooking process. I decided to add some turmeric to the water for a pop of sunshine. It really does glow and makes an incredible centrepiece. Then, once it had simmered for 10 minutes, I made a paste with some olive oil and ras el hanout (Mezze sells this rose-petal-flecked spice blend in its online shop) to rub over the cauliflower.
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With a creamy tahini sauce on top and some fresh pomegranate and coriander, this really does make a stunning addition to any table. It goes so well with salads or baked potatoes. I serve it with crunchy roasted chickpeas and extra tahini sauce on the side. It can be carved into thick slices or wedges like a cake.
