Keep your baby vegetables and microleaves. Cabbage just makes me happy

Paul Flynn: This is my last week writing this column, after three years and 450-plus recipes

Hopefully I have given you some useful dishes and the odd giggle along the way. Photograph: Harry Weir

Our cookery school diningroom is not only for the students to relax and eat their culinary triumphs but also for private events, and usually I am the cook. I enjoy the more sedate pace here than in the restaurant, and I can interact with people and have a bit of fun as I’m cooking. It’s a dinner party where I don’t have to do the washing up.

Between courses I dash over to the restaurant to greet the customers and make my presence felt. They always like to see me. However, The Tannery is always and ever about the team. Daniel, our manager, and Damien, our head chef, are ever present and vigilant.

Last week I cooked for a double birthday. The family are originally from Dungarvan but most of them are now scattered around the country and the world. Their mother was a great customer and they’ve always kept up the tradition of coming to us for family events. This loyalty is what keeps our restaurant and others going, through thick and thin.

Drinks are poured in the kitchen while everyone greets each other. They marvel at how the younger generation have shot up in these past few very strange years. The room starts off slowly, and as the evening grows, it bubbles with laughter and stories. A grateful normality is back.

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That day we received a delivery of our first pumpkins of the season from our local grower; a bag of cavolo nero rustled beside it, so with dinner I put them together along the table. The pumpkin peeled and roasted with cinnamon and thyme. The kale, torn and nestled among it, anointed with a pickled walnut dressing.

This is my last week writing for you. It’s been three years and more than 450 recipes. I’ve enjoyed pouring my heart out and hopefully I have given you some useful dishes and the odd giggle along the way. It’s been cathartic, sometimes challenging, but always enjoyable, especially when I got some lovely feedback. My last week expresses my love for the humble brassica; you can keep your baby vegetables and microleaves. Cabbage just makes me happy.

Peppered hoisin steak with pak choi, spring onions, chilli and ginger

Recipe: Peppered hoisin steak with pak choi, spring onions, chilli and ginger

Farfalle with Brussels sprouts, smoked salmon and crème fraîche

Recipe: Farfalle with Brussels sprouts, smoked salmon and crème fraîche

Winter vegetable salad, chervil and horseradish dressing

Recipe: Winter vegetable salad, chervil and horseradish dressing