It may surprise some people that Marseilles is France’s oldest city and one of Europe’s oldest continuously inhabited settlements. Founded around 600 BC by Greek settlers from Phocaea, some 2600 years later, Marseilles is still a bustling, cosmopolitan Mediterranean port city in southern France. It is ethnically and culturally diverse, and after Paris, it is the most populous city in France and boasts the second-largest number of museums of any French city other than the capital. If you happen to find yourself in town for rugby, it is also well worth exploring the city and taking in some culture.
An impressive first stop is Mucem: The Museum of European and Mediterranean Civilisations (1 Esp J4, 13002 Marseilles) which was inaugurated in 2013, the year the city was the European Capital of Culture. The exhibitions focus on Mediterranean life and history. You can explore the grounds, admire the architecture and visit the on-site cafes and restaurants without paying for admission.
If you are up to exploring the wider area, wrap up for a boat trip to Îles du Frioul. The ferry costs €11.20 and goes regularly from the old port. In about 20 minutes, you will be in the stunning Frioul Archipelago, famed for its history and biodiversity. Don’t forget to grab picnic supplies and maybe a bottle of wine from Les Grand Halles (30 Cr Honoré d’Estienne d’Orves, 13001), a bustling food court and market with takeaway options and also a variety of delicious spots to eat-in, open seven days a week 9am-midnight. Seek out tasty local dishes such as octopus salad and deep-fried chickpea fritters called panisses, usually served with aioli, which make a delicious aperitivi snack with a glass of local wine or a kir.
Marseilles is also a gateway to Calanques National Park. Head to Les Goudes Calanques or Plage des Catalans to enjoy stunning walks and admire these steep-walled inlets; visit offpeak to enjoy the views without the crowds.
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And if culture and wine pique your interest, about an hour from the city, you’ll find Château La Coste (2750 Route De La Cride, 13610 Le Puy-Sainte-Réparade, France). Belfast businessman Paddy McKillen has poured two decades into curating an extensive art and outdoor installation experience, including an impressive Louise Bourgeois Spider, while also cultivating vines and making elegant wines on the estate.
But there is no need to leave the city to enjoy the maritime air, clear the cobwebs and take in the sea views while strolling along the Cornish or, if people-watching is your thing, head to the Cours Julien, a funky, urban area with street art, lots of food options and markets stalls.
Marseilles has much to offer: a wealth of history, culture and cuisine. It’s a great student city; the creative and arts-focused people rave about its heritage, the ancient quarry ruins, the skeletons of thousand-year-old boats, and some of the oldest churches in Europe, not to forget the thriving music and urban art scene. It is a city that has a dynamic urban energy well worth exploring.
Eating and drinking:
Markets:
Le marché aux poissons de la Criée (fish market – real Marseilles experience daily 8am-1pm), 2, quai du Port, 13002 Marseilles, France
Marché du Prado (a nice mix of everything Monday – Saturday, 7am-1pm), 99 avenue du Prado, 13008 Marseilles, France
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Restaurants
If you love seafood, you will be spoiled in Marseilles. While visiting, try a hearty bouillabaisse fish stew, any of the freshly caught fish or even some sea urchins.
Les Bord De Mer, 52 Cor Président John Fitzgerald Kennedy, 13007 Marseilles, France
It’s worth trying for a cancellation at this stylish restaurant with beautiful views. Failing that, they serve seafood platters at the weekend without reservations on their rooftop terrace.
La Caravelle, 34 Quai du Port, 13002 Marseilles, France
Find the restaurant upstairs in this hotel; it’s not trendy but has excellent food; great aioli and gorgeous views make it the perfect spot at sunset.
Restaurant Cédrat 81 Rue Breteuil, 13006 Marseilles, France
Great wines, lovely dishes and warm friendly staff; what’s not to love?
La Mercerie 9 Cr Saint-Louis, 13001 Marseilles, France
Hip industrial style restaurant, with creative dishes focused on local produce with lovely wine suggestions featuring natural wines.
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Ourea 72 Rue de la Paix Marcel Paul, 13006 Marseilles, France
Superb restaurant offering very good value for money set price lunch menu.
Livingston 5 Rue Crudère, 13006 Marseilles, France
Fun spot with a focus on shared plates and great wine. Warm and welcoming, with good music. Aske about the €45 menu.
Otto 150 Rue Jean Mermoz, 13008 Marseilles, France
Concise menu but everything on it is delicious, lovely atmosphere and nice for groups of friends.
Peron 56 Cor Président John Fitzgerald Kennedy, 13007 Marseilles, France
Utterly stunning views from this seafood and fished-focused restaurant along the seafront; refined, classy spot.
A Moro: 3 Rue Venture, 13001 Marseilles, France
A local spot and hidden gem, great traditional food with a contemporary twist and keen prices.
Cafes and breakfast:
Cup of Tea 1 Rue Caisserie, 13002 Marseilles, France
Quirky, cosy spot with tasty cakes and tea. Take some time to browse the selection of vintage books and records.
Deep 15 Rue Glandeves, 13001 Marseilles, France
Excellent coffee which they roast themselves, near the Old Port.
Café Zephyr 57 Rue Francis Davso, 13001 Marseilles, France,
Great lunch and brunch spot at the Old Port,
Bars:
Bar Gaspard 7 Boulevard Notre Dame, 13006 Marseilles, France classy cocktail bar with delicious drinks and welcoming staff.
Propaganda Bar 11 Quai de Rive Neuve, 13001 Marseilles, France buzzing bar with nice drinks, friendly food, lovely views of the port from the terrace.
