Six Irish restaurants have been added to the Michelin Guide, marking a significant expansion of local names on the respected list.
Michelin inspectors added three Dublin restaurants – Mongoose, Díon and China Hunan – to the guide, and three outside the capital: Bearú in New Ross, Co Wexford, d Grain Store at Killruddery in Bray, Co Wicklow and The Universal in Galway.
Inclusion in the Michelin Guide does not equate to a star or Bib Gourmand, with these awarded at a ceremony held at the start of each year. It is nonetheless an influential recommendation generally viewed as a boost to a restaurant’s reputation.
Mongoose, the bistro opened in April by the Higgs brothers behind Michelin-starred Variety Jones, received a particularly enthusiastic Michelin entry. The guide said diners would “be left struggling to choose between mightily appealing dishes”. Dubliners acquainted with Variety Jones next door in Dublin 8 would be “head over heels” with Mongoose, inspectors said. Our restaurant critic Corinna Hardgrave was also a Mongoose fan when she visited in May.
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Díon, which opened at the top of the old Central Bank on Dame Street just before Christmas last year, offers a “keen sense of place”, inspectors said. They highlighted the modern restaurant’s cocktail offering and described its brasserie-style dishes as “polished”. Read our review here.
Just outside the city centre, Michelin gave a nod to Ranelagh Chinese restaurant China Hunan, which inspectors said offered “an air of understated glamour”. As well as skill in the kitchen, they noted “generous portions”, which they said ensure good value for money. Read our review here.
Bearú in New Ross is “proudly run” by chef and co-owner Dave Rowley, said Michelin. The new guide entry notes that Bearú offers breakfasts and lunch during the day, and restaurant-style fare on Friday and Saturday nights. Inspectors appreciated dishes that “burst with flavour thanks to the superb quality of the ingredients”. Read our review here.
Outside Bray, Michelin found Grain Store at Killruddery, headed by chef Niall O’Sullivan, to be “a charming, rustic restaurant” in a “characterful space”. Inspectors said the cooking here has “a classic heart” and highlighted dishes such as Wine Tavern pork croquettes and black pudding and burnt apple purée. Read our review (from 2022) here.
Galway restaurant The Universal was also added to the guide, with inspectors describing a “period pub” with “a welcoming atmosphere and full-flavoured food”. The menu showcases “the best of the Irish larder”, they said, namechecking Connemara surf clams and Kinvara lamb.
