1. Stir a tablespoon of the smoky za’atar into the two tablespoons olive oil and leave to infuse for at least an hour. Strain the oil through a fine sieve.

2. Preheat the oven to 200 degrees fan.

3. Remove the seeds from the squash, then chop it into wedges. Toss the wedges in olive oil and salt and place on a parchment-lined oven tray, spaced apart. Roast for about 20 minutes, until lightly browned and tender. Transfer to a bowl and coat with the remaining tablespoon of smoky za’atar, adding a little more olive oil if needed to help it stick.

4. Make the lemon tahini while the squash is cooking. Whisk some water into the tahini to get a thick pouring texture. Stir in the garlic, lemon juice and yoghurt to get a softer, mayonnaise-like finish. Season with salt.

5. To serve, spread some lemon tahini on individual plates or a serving dish. Arrange the squash wedges on top and garnish with the popped barley, mint and pomegranate seeds, finishing with a drizzle of the smoky za’atar oil. The skin of winter squash is edible and can be left on for dishes such as this one, where the squash is roasted in wedges at a high temperature.

6. To make the smoky za’atar: Toast the cumin and coriander seeds and leave to cool for a few minutes, then grind them together with the thyme. Stir in the toasted sesame seeds, sumac, paprika and salt. Store in a dry airtight container. Keeps well for two weeks.

7. To make popped barley: heat the oil to 190 degrees in a large, wide, heavy-based pan. Drop one piece of barley in the oil to test that the oil is hot enough to make the grain pop. When the oil is ready, drop in a quarter of the barley. When the grains have popped, remove them with a sieve, scatter them on a tray lined with kitchen paper and season with salt. Repeat with the rest of the barley in batches and allow the popped barley to cool fully. Keeps for one week in a dry, airtight container.

Paradiso: Recipes and Reflections by Denis Cotter is published by Nine Bean Rows (€39)