What’s on offer?
John Wyer developed a huge following for his sourdough and breads when Forest Avenue restaurant traded as a bakery and grocery during the pandemic. When the business returned to operating as a restaurant, Tom and Finn Gleeson of Bunsen Burger suggested collaborating on a bakery project. Una opened in Ranelagh – beside Night Market – in February.
It’s a smart, bright bakery. Pastries are displayed on the counter and sourdough and hefty chunks of focaccia sit on shelves. The sourdough-based focaccia, made with Shipton Mill’s organic flours, ferments for 24-48 hours and is finished with biodynamic extra virgin olive. It is cooked in a Salva deck oven, between 255 and 265 degrees.
It’s worth picking up the signature sourdough when you are in too. It’s made with Mariagertoba, a heritage flour from Quartz Molle mill in Denmark. It’s owned and operated by an Irish farmer, Fintan Keenan, who practises regenerative farming methods.
What did we order?
There are just two savoury options, Gubbeen and mushroom quiche, and bacon jam escargot (spiral pastry). I also order focaccia, an almond croissant and a cream puff.
Rolls takeaway review: Pop-up in Howth serving lobster rolls by the water’s edge
Floritz review: A glitzy but perplexing new restaurant with an overwhelming menu
Green Bench Cafe takeaway review: Top-tier sandwiches in a most delightful city centre spot
September, Blackrock, review: We need more walk-in restaurants in scenic spots like this - absolutely delightful
How was the service?
Smart and friendly. You order and pay at the counter.
Was the food nice?
This is exceptionally good food. The pastry on the quiche is buttery and flaky and the filling is soft and custardy, flavoured with mushrooms and Gubbeen. This would be delicious with a light salad. The bacon jam escargot is like a Danish laminated pastry, with a spiral of bacon jam, with its savoury nubbly bits as the filling, dusted with cheese which has cooked to a golden crunch. It is more of a pastry than a lunch dish. The focaccia is spectacular, as good as you’re likely to get. It’s a thick slab with an open, airy crumb and a bit of chew. It has a delicious flavour, the olive oil seeping up through the crusty bottom. It would be so good with some gooey cheese. The cream puff, made from choux pastry, is deliciously light and full of cream. The almond croissant is not twice baked (and better for it) with a generous layer of marzipan and flaked almonds on top.
What about the packaging?
Bread and pastries are wrapped in paper and put in a paper bag.
[ Mama Shee takeaway review: an incredible taste of home-cooked African foodOpens in new window ]
What did it cost?
€25 for lunch for two people: Gubbeen quiche, €5; bacon jam escargot, €5; focaccia, €6; almond croissant, €5; and cream puff, €4.
Where does it deliver?
Takeaway only, open Thursday-Sunday, 8am-4pm or until it sells out. There are plans to be open daily by the end of June.
Would I order it again?
Absolutely, this is an amazing bakery. Generously sized. Good value for money. Just be sure to get there early as it does sell out.
