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Doom Slice takeaway review: Detroit-style pizza with a deliciously addictive crunchy, cheesy crust

The toppings are quite light while the marinara sauce has great flavour

Doom Slice: delicious Detroit-style pizza. Photograph: Corinna Hardgrave
Doom Slice
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Address: 14 Dame Lane, Dublin 2, D02 XC91
Telephone: N/A
Cuisine: International
Cost: €€

What’s on offer?

Doom Slice opened in May, serving Detroit-style pizza through a hatch on Dame Lane in Dublin city centre. There are a few tables outside, although cover is limited if it’s raining. You can also order inside at the bar and eat in Pawnshop. It is owned by film-makers and husband-and-wife team Ben Cleary and Angela Stempel, along with Simon Blake-Knox and New York chef Tom Sicotakis.

Ben and Angela first fell in love with Detroit-style pizza when they were living in Los Angeles and Tom was smitten after a visit to Detroit. Tom makes his dough with a special blend of flours and ferments it for 24 hours. The pizzas are cooked in square pans (the tradition dates back to when they were cooked in auto parts) in an American-style twin deck oven.

What makes the Detroit deep-dish pizza different is the cheesy frico crust. It is crispy at the edges as the cheese melds with the dough and caramelises.

What did we order?

A Detroit Red Top, the Holy Pepperoni, the Gloat and the Carnitas of Doom.

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How was the service?

Doom Slice on Dame Lane, Dublin: takeaway or eat-in only. Photograph: Corinna Hardgrave

Very smart, with helpful staff who will talk you through the options. You order at the hatch, pay for your food and get a buzzer which goes off when your order is ready.

Was the food nice?

The pizza base is quite different from the Neapolitan style we are familiar with, it is more like a focaccia. The crunchy, cheesy crusts at the edges are particularly good. The toppings on these pizzas are quite light. There’s a good flavour from the marinara sauce, which is made from San Marzano tomatoes, and for The Detroit Red Top, it is this with a light flurry of Grana Padano. The Holy Pepperoni, with dots of ricotta, has a bit of a kick from the pepperoni and jalapeños. The Gloat, a vegetarian option, has goat’s cheese with caramelised shallots bringing quite a bit of sweetness to the slice. The Carnitas of Doom is the tastiest and most substantial of the slices, with slow-cooked pork, guacamole, sour cream and red onion.

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What about the packaging?

Slices are served in a cardboard box which is recyclable if clean.

What did it cost?

€22 for dinner for two people: Detroit Red Top, €5; the Holy Pepperoni, €6; the Gloat, €5; and the Carnitas of Doom, €6.

Where does it deliver?

Takeaway or eat-in only, open from 5pm on weekdays and 1pm on weekends. Open until 1am on Fridays and Saturdays. A lunch service is planned during the week.

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Would I order it again?

Yes, I really liked this pizza, particularly the crunchy, cheesy bits on the crust.

Corinna Hardgrave

Corinna Hardgrave

Corinna Hardgrave, a contributor to The Irish Times, writes a weekly restaurant column