Gah!
Found another newly awarded Bib Gourmand lurking. In our defense it was hiding in the UK listings, whereas we consider our restaurants (and their accolades) on an all island basis. mrDeanes in Belfast is the casual dining option opened by Michael Deane in Belfast last year. Here’s what the inspectors said:
“Its full name, ‘mrDeanes Bistro, Bar and Social’, paints a perfect picture of this spacious addition to Michael Deane’s ever-evolving Belfast empire. Grab a cocktail at the bar before taking your seat in a restaurant that’s bursting with vitality. The eminently appealing menu offers well-executed takes on dishes from all over the world, be it Gaeng Phed red curry or ‘entrecôte au poivre’. There’s a palpable generosity to the place too, with the food and wine both offering great value for money.”
Well done mrDeanes!
Ok, that’s a wrap for another year. Hungry work indeed. I’m off to check out bookings.
All current holders of Michelin stars (15 one-stars and 5 two-stars) in Ireland retained their stars. Here’s the updated at-a-glance list. For details go to guide.michelin.com/en/
Two stars
- Chapter One, Parnell Square, Dublin 1
- Restaurant Patrick Guilbaud, Merrion Hotel, Dublin 2
- Liath, Blackrock, Co Dublin
- Terre, Castlemartyr Hotel, Co Cork
- Dede, Baltimore, Co Cork
One star
- NEW Morrison Room at Carton House, Maynooth, Co Kildare
- NEW Ballyfin Demesne, Mountrath, Co Laois
- NEW Lignum, Loughrea, Co Galway
- Glovers Alley, Fitzwilliam Hotel, Dublin 2
- D’Olier Street, Dublin 2
- Bastible, Leonards Corner, Dublin 8
- Variety Jones, Thomas Street, Dublin 8
- Campagne, Kilkenny city
- Lady Helen, Mount Juliet Estate, Kilkenny
- The Bishop’s Buttery, Cashel Palace Hotel, Tipperary
- House, Cliff House Hotel, Ardmore, Co Waterford
- Aniar, Galway city
- The Oak Room, Adare Manor, Co Limerick
- Homestead Cottage, Doolin, Co Clare
- Bastion, Kinsale, Co Cork
- Chestnut, Ballydehob, Co Cork
- The Muddlers Club, Warehouse Lane, Belfast
- OX, Oxford Street, Belfast
OK, we’ve ferreted out who the new Bib Gourmands (“good food at moderate prices”) in Ireland went to:
Daróg in Galway
Owner Zsolt Lukács was awarded the UK & Ireland Sommelier award, and with it a Bib Gourmand. They inspectors said of Daróg:
“There’s a huge amount of passion channelled into this welcoming little wine bar. Hungarian-born Zsolt Lukács has an infectious enthusiasm for wine, which comes across in his carefully curated list that gravitates towards small artisan producers using organic and biodynamic methods. Accompanying the wine is a selection of sharing plates – like kingfish crudo – that are exactingly executed, deliver on flavour and provide brilliant value for money. The regularly changing artwork from local artists is on sale and is curated by co-owner Edel."
Baba’de, Baltimore, Co Cork
Owned by chef Ahmet Dede, holder of two stars for his Dede restaurant in Baltimore, this is the more informal baby sister. Here the inspectors said:
“With a name meaning ‘Baby Dede’, this second Baltimore venture from Chef Ahmet Dede is an ode to his family and comes with all the homespun charm you’d expect. Located mere feet away from his acclaimed flagship restaurant, this is a more relaxed affair but the great value sharing plates retain the older sibling’s ethos of Turkish flavours married with Irish produce. Each dish – from a unique take on oyster chowder to Ahmet’s signature ‘içli köfte’ – is bright, fresh and wholly satisfying."
Well that’s good luck and good night from the Michelin Ceremony in Glasgow. How did Ireland fare?
One star:
Adam Nevin at the Morrison Rooms in Carton House, Maynooth, Co Kildare.
Richard Picard-Edwards, Ballyfin Demesne, Mountrath Co Laois.
Danny Africano, Lignum Restaurant, Loughrea, Co Galway.
Sommelier of the Year:
Zsolt Lukács of Daróg Wine Bar, Galway City.
Awwwwwww.... that’s it. Just the one news three star which went to Moor Hall. Another year and Ireland misses out on that elusive third star.
Now, the NEW THREE STARS
Moor Hall, under Mark Birchall, in Aughton, England
(Aughton there be one for Chapter One??? c’mon Ireland!!!)
ehhhh ... that should read 40 years the Waterside Inn on the go at three stars (reasons I’m not an accountant)
Waterside got its third star in 1985 – so that’s 30 years operating at that level. Alain Ducasse quite emotional.
OK the biggest of the biggies now – the 3-star awards.
Those retaining three stars: Fat Duck; Waterside Inn; Alain Ducasse at Dorchester, Core by Claire Smyth; Sketch, the Lecture Room and Library; Restaurant Gordon Ramsay; The Ledbury; Hélène Darroze at the Connaught.
(might have missed one there, but hopefully not)
Last two star to Angelo Sato to the pretty coolly named Humble Chicken in London. Verry young looking guy, of few words, except to say he didn’t have a great start in life, so this means a great deal.
John looks like everybody’s lovely uncle. “I’ve waited 50 years for this. I thought we were forgotten. we carried on cooking to the best of our ability, but the experience comes with the service.”
OK, now it’s the two-star awards. Will we feature?
First up Hide and Fox in Kent – Susan says it’s the perrrrrfect country restaurant. I bet it is!
The Ritz, London – John Williams MBE is the chef, and he’s getting a standing ovation.
Green stars now. Those restaurants that can minimise their environmental footprint – sustainable gastronomy. Kai in Galway is the only holder of this award in Ireland. Quite the achievement when I don’t think they even have a kitchen garden feeding their restaurant.
OK, no new gongs for Ireland in this category. Must try harder ...
Interesting segment here about women chefs, first-person stories for a wide selection of women of what it’s like operating in a professional kitchen. How they have to break stereotypes re being serious about a cooking career. Head chef women are expected to do everything in their kitchens, men are usually allowed to “just cook”. Imposter syndrome is rife. The media defer to men for opinions all the time. More women need to enter competitions. general experience is that every man believes they are the best (generally when not), women have to be persuaded.
And that’s it for the one-star awards – 22 new winners in total. And a glorious, delicious, well-deserved three for Ireland: Adam Nevin, Carton House; Richard Picard-Edwards, Ballyfin Demesne; Danny Africano, Lignum, Co Galway. And don’t forget Best Sommelier UK and Ireland, Zsolt Lukács of Daróg, Galway. Whoop! Whoop!
And another! Ballyfin Demesne!
It’s raining Irish stars(ish)! Great news for Ballyfin. The rumour mill had been rife, and went into overdrive when Ballyfin was awarded three Michelin Keys last year – its new award category for top quality hotels. Chef Richard Picard-Edwards joined Ballyfin in April 2023 from the Mandarin Oriental Bittescombe Lodge in the UK. Since arriving the bar has been set at Michelin-star level, served up in a stunning eight-course menu (€145). The restaurant is now open to non-residents too, so at least you don’t have to remortgage the house for an overnight with dinner. Corinna Hardgrave visited last October, when she described the Jerusalem artichoke cream as “downright dazzling”.
Three years ago our restaurant critic Corinna Hardgrave said in her Lignum Review she would be “astonished” if Lignum didn’t land a star in the following year. Well dear reader, she, and many others have been disappointed every year since. Located a bit off the well-trod Michelin track in Loughrea, Co Galway, since opening in 2017 chef/proprietor Danny Africano and wife Molly Keane have been firmly in the sights of the Michelin star judges. With a focus on wood-fired cooking it offers a €145, 10-course tasting menu, showcasing seasonal Irish and Italian ingredients. Well worth a detour – in the truest Michelin sense!
Another star for Ireland!!!!
Danny Africano of Lignum in Loughrea, Co Galway. They’ve been at it since 2017 – recognition at last!
Star for Tom Barnes of Skof in Manchester.This was hotly anticipated
Star for Lyla in Edinburgh. Scotland doing verrrryyyy well. Can’t wait for them to host the ceremony in Ireland!!!
Cardiff gets its first Michelin Star! Going to Tom Waters of Gorse
Gary Foulkes at Cornus in London picks up a star.
Adam Nevin is formerly of The Grill at The Dorchester, The Hand and Flowers and The Westbury in London. A Maynooth native he only took up the position at Carton House in September 2023. I was lucky enough to dine here a couple of months ago, and what an experience. The dining room, with Lafranchini brothers stuccowork is sensational and steeped in history, but the food is the real star of the show. The tasting menu is about €135, or you can opt for the €110 chef’s five course menu. Recently Mickael Viljanen of Chapter One sang the praises of Nevin’s informal Sunday lunch menu – high praise indeed. Read Corinna Hardgrave’s review from February 2024 here
Waheyyyy!!! First Michelin star for Adam Nevin of the Morrison Rooms at Carton House. This guy is only 30, and playing a stormer!!!
The people behind Daróg in Galway are husband-and-wife team Zsolt Lukács and Edel McMahon. Lukács was the sommelier at Aniar for a long time, and McMahon is a sister of JP McMahon, well known chef owner of Aniar, prolific food writer and all round food genius.
Fantastic! Sommelier award goes to Zsolt Lukacs of Daróg (we knew Daróg was in there somewhere). Great win for a lovely little Irish operation - well deserved!!
Service award goes to Jasmine Sherry of Fish Shop a tiny operation in Ballater in the Scottish Highlands.
Mentor chef awards goes to Adam Byatt, Trinity restaurant in Clapham, London.
Young chef award going to Ash Venezuela-Heeger from River Rabbit restaurant in Birmingham.
36 new bibs in total across UK and Ireland. Two for Ireland, but we don’t find out until they update the guide after the ceremony. Jeez. Not a very fun teaser - especially if you’re a hopeful chef. It’s possible Daróg is in there, but that’s speculation. More as we can confirm it...
Susan is back and reminding us that the guide isn’t just about stars. This year 145 new restaurants have been added to the 3000+ in the guide. Now for the Bib Gourmands - quality food at affordable prices. Glasgow has added two new Bibs. Great. What about the Irish ones? Keep you posted.
Ok, we’ve just had Mairi Gougeon, cabinet secretary fo rural affairs, land reform and islands. She makes the important point how there would be no awards without the fabulous fresh produce from our land and seas. Followed by lovely pics of Scotland.
Aye, aye here comes Gwendal Poullennec international director of the Michelin Guide, getting to the meat and potatoes now. It’s the 125th anniversary of the Michelin guide, so a landmark year for the principles of culinary excellence.
Next up we have councillor Susan Aitken, leader of Glasgow City Council. Delighted she is for she and the city to be hosting. Gotta say there’s a distracting and ominous background music that feels like we’ve all suddenly entered the twighlight zone.
Our host is Amanda Stretton, UK motorsports racing driver and broadcaster, who tells us this is the first time the ceremony has taken place outside of England.
Well this is lovely. A very atmospheric bagpipe and organ introduction - a nice reminder of our surrounds at the beautiful looking Kelvingrove Art Gallery & Museum in Glasgow, Scotland.
Talk about all sound, no picture. We’re all on tenterhooks waiting for the ceremony to begin.... oh hang, on! here we go!!!
Speculation has been mounting all day as to who the lucky new recipients of stars might be. Smart money at this point is on The Morrison Room at Carton House, Maynooth; Ballyfin Demesne in Laois; Library Street, Dublin 2; Lignum, Co Galway. Meanwhile there’s the eternal will we/won’t we ever attain that third Michelin Star in Ireland. In with a shout would have to be Chapter One, and then there’s always Terre at Castlemartyr, or Restaurant Patrick Guilbaud. All will soon be revealed...
We may be just 5 minutes away from the awards starting and if you were ever in any doubt as to how closely Michelin holds its cards to its chest, we can tell you, pretty damn close. We don’t know who is hosting, or how the ceremony will play out, ie when will the Bib Gourmands be announced? at the beginning? at the end? Anyone’s guess.
Want to know what the Michelin inspectors think of our current Michelin star restaurants, here’s what they said about each in the 2024 edition of the guide Michelin-starred restaurants in Ireland, 2024: The complete guide:
As our countdown to 6pm continues, it’s worth noting that the ceremony only awards NEW stars and Bibs. If a current holder of a Michelin-star or Bib Gourmand is unlucky enough to lose its star, this will only become apparent after the ceremony when Michelin updates its listing to add new winners, and omit those who have failed to retain their award.
Ireland’s first Michelin award
While tonight is all about looking ahead, it’s good to remember too those that blazed the trail. Back in 1974, Declan Ryan won Ireland’s first Michelin star at the Arbutus Lodge restaurant in Cork. This week he spoke to Barry Roche about what it was like to win such an accolade back then, while Alan Betson shot some lovely video of Declan in West Cork cooking up a salmon and foraged sorrel classic.
What is a Michelin star?
What’s all the fuss about Michelin stars anyway? The awards have a very interesting back story. They were the brainchild in 1900 of the tyre manufacturing brothers André and Edouard Michelin. There are now more than 3,000 Michelin-starred restaurants in close to 40 countries. The inspectors, who book anonymously and pay their bill in full, have been active in Ireland since 1974. There are degrees of recognition within the guide, the highest being Michelin star level. The impact and pressure of achieving and retaining a star is considerable. This article from 2023 give a nice insight to just what’s involved: Michelin stars: The power to make or break careers, businesses – and lives
Put simply there are levels of inclusion in the Michelin guide which operate as follows:
At the lowest level, a restaurant can simply be listed in the Guide. That’s an achievement in itself.
Bib Gourmand: This is awarded for good food at moderate prices. Last year Ireland added five new Bib Gourmands, bringing its tally here to 18. Usually these are announced a week or two before the Michelin stars, but this year they will announce them tonight along with the stars. These are always of interest because realistically they are the restaurants most ordinary diners can hope to afford, and they can be very good without being too formal.
Then, the stars:
- One — High quality cooking. Worth a stop.
- Two — Excellent cooking. Worth a detour.
- Three — Exceptional cuisine. Worth a special journey.
Welcome
Good evening and welcome to the most exciting night on the fine dining restaurant calendar. Chefs, proprietors, kitchen teams, gourmets and judges are gathering in the Kelvingrove Art Gallery & Museum in Glasgow, Scotland for the annual Britain & Ireland Michelin Guide ceremony where this year’s winners of the highly coveted Michelin stars for culinary excellence will be announced. Starting at 6pm the ceremony (whose organisers swear the winners in attendance to secrecy in advance) will reveal those restaurants that have been successful in attaining (or adding) a star following visits and assessments from the judges in the last 12 months.
AT A GLANCE: IRELAND’S CURRENT MICHELIN STAR RESTAURANTS
Two stars
- Chapter One, Parnell Square, Dublin 1
- Restaurant Patrick Guilbaud, Merrion Hotel, Dublin 2
- Liath, Blackrock, Co Dublin
- Terre, Castlemartyr Hotel, Co Cork
- Dede, Baltimore, Co Cork
One star
- Glovers Alley, Fitzwilliam Hotel, Dublin 2
- D’Olier Street, Dublin 2
- Bastible, Leonards Corner, Dublin 8
- Variety Jones, Thomas Street, Dublin 8
- Campagne, Kilkenny city
- Lady Helen, Mount Juliet Estate, Kilkenny
- The Bishop’s Buttery, Cashel Palace Hotel, Tipperary
- House, Cliff House Hotel, Ardmore, Co Waterford
- Aniar, Galway city
- The Oak Room, Adare Manor, Co Limerick
- Homestead Cottage, Doolin, Co Clare
- Bastion, Kinsale, Co Cork
- Chestnut, Ballydehob, Co Cork
- The Muddlers Club, Warehouse Lane, Belfast
- OX, Oxford Street, Belfast
Green star
- Kai, Galway city
- The Michelin Guide Great Britain & Ireland 2025 will be revealed tonight.
- While British restaurants have long secured three-star status, Ireland remains on the outside looking in.
- With speculation building, will this finally be the year an Irish restaurant claims the ultimate accolade?
- Watch the live stream of the awards from Glasgow, Scotland taking place 6-7pm
Key reads:
- Restaurant critic Corinna Hardgrave previews the restaurants in the running for a possible star this year, and those that might pick up another. Michelin Guide 2025: Will Ireland finally get its first three-star restaurant?
- Michelin-starred restaurants in Ireland, 2024: The complete guide
- Ireland’s first Michelin star: ‘It made the front page of the London Times, but only got a mention in the Examiner’
Declan and Patsy Ryan recall receiving the restaurant industry’s highest accolade in 1974 for their Arbutus Lodge
