I don’t know if pizza is part of the training regimen for professional rugby players, but James Lowe was spotted in Reggie’s Pizzeria in Rathmines, which opened at the beginning of December, on the night my daughter dropped in. Whether he was there in a business capacity or just as a hungry punter, her verdict was clear: good, but the dough wasn’t quite there yet.
Knowing the mercurial nature of sourdough starters – academic studies show that when uprooted from their warm bakery havens and plonked into sterile labs, some bacteria soldier on while others promptly kick the bucket, changing the dough, the crust and the pizza – I decided to give it time to settle into its new home.
Reggie White, for those who don’t know their Neapolitan from their Roman al taglio, is Ireland’s pizzaiolo-in-chief. Ballymaloe-trained, with stints at Del Popolo and Flour+Water in San Francisco, he returned to Dublin, co-founded Pi on George’s Street, and then made his name consulting for some of Ireland’s hottest pizza spots – Little Forest, Bambino and Otto. Now, at long last, with 10 pals (including James Lowe) quietly backing 20 per cent, he has planted his flag in Rathmines, Dublin 6.
Set in a landmark redbrick building that used to house Sprezzatura, the space has been reimagined as something that manages to feel both sharp and inviting. Sustainability runs through the bones of the place, from the bar top made from recycled single-use plastic cutlery and fridges to the refurbished 1950s school chairs. The Sonaspray ceiling works wonders for the acoustics.
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The front window offers a direct glimpse into White’s set-up, where a 1981 Diosna mixer – lovingly refurbished – churns out his 100 per cent sourdough base, a blend of regenerative flours from Wildfarmed, fermented for 48 hours.
We begin with cacio e pepe arancini (€8.50), three golden orbs oozing cheese on a silky Parmesan custard. They arrive hot and crunchy, the rice not too compacted as it can sometimes be, a minor miracle of texture and flavour. Then come the ricotta meatballs (€9.50) in tomato sauce with a thin slice of sourdough focaccia. Light, open-textured meatballs with a fragrant hit of thyme.
The short wine list is well conceived, mostly organic and biodynamic bottles with nothing too funky, and nine options by the glass. We go for Cantina de Negrar (€7) and Col d’Orcia (€8.50).
The pizzas arrive on high tiers – a simple yet brilliant touch that frees up precious elbow space as we finish off our starters. They have been baked in a PizzaMaster electric oven at 370 degrees Celsius, long enough to coax out a rich, nutty flavour with a leopard-spotted crust that’s crisp yet chewy. The leek and Cashel Blue (€16) is a revelation: a white base layered with whey-braised leeks, blue cheese and a delicate drizzle of honey. The subtle sweetness echoes through every bite – the honey enhancing the leeks, the leeks softening the blue cheese, each flavour bolstered by the others rather than fighting for space.
The Margherita (€14.95), by contrast, is a study in simplicity. The crushed tomato base is bright and tangy, the fior di latte creamy and bubbling. The dough is chewy and full of character, with a char that tastes of long-fermented patience. That sourdough starter has definitely settled into its happy place. If there’s a quibble, it’s the cook time – the base felt a tad underdone beneath the toppings, leaving the underside a little soft where it should have been crisp. Still, it’s a Margherita that respects its form: an ode to balance and restraint.
The sausage, stracciatella and chilli is another great pizza, with its Andarl Farm pork sausage and creamy Toons Bridge cheese sparring with Calabrian chilli and capers on a tangy tomato base. It’s messy and delicious.
Desserts are low key. The chocolate custard (€7) has a firm texture, with the unmistakable creaminess of milk chocolate. It’s comforting and nostalgic, though perhaps a little one-note. The sundae (€8), meanwhile, is fun – salted caramel, peanuts and candied popcorn layered over Boulabán Farm vanilla ice cream.
Reggie’s Pizzeria is a place where every detail has been carefully thought through. The 48-hour sourdough, made with Wildfarmed flours, delivers a crust that’s crisp, nutty and perfectly charred, while toppings like whey-braised leeks, Cashel Blue, and Andarl Farm pork reflect an unwavering commitment to quality. The sustainable design and neighbourhood charm bring it all together. It’s proof that Reggie White isn’t just a pizza whisperer – he’s a restaurateur with serious vision.
Dinner for three with two glasses of wine and a soft drink was €90.90.
The verdict: 9/10 Serious pizza, more than just a neighbourhood spot.
Food provenance: McNally Farm, Toon’s Bridge Dairy, Andarl Farm pork, and Crowe’s smoked bacon.
Vegetarian options: Mozzarella sticks, arancini, focaccia, Caesar salad, pumpkin salad, Margherita pizza, and leek and Cashel Blue pizza.
Wheelchair access: Fully accessible, with an accessible toilet.
Music: Justin Timberlake, and plenty of CMAT.
