Galway, the city of the tribes, heaves with tourists. As well as hen and stag weekenders many come to attend the numerous literary, music, film and theatre festivals. Music wafts out from the pubs on to the streets and from the street performers back into the shops and bars.
Cultured tourists peruse its many music shops and bookshops. They also make a beeline for the aromatic offerings at Cloon Keen Atelier, a perfumery on High Street that won an Irish Times Best Shops award last year. It makes perfume and scented candles, and is full of luxurious nonessentials, olfactory souvenirs that you won’t be able to leave without buying.
Galway girls, immortalised in song for their beauty, love their glamour. A large Brown Thomas offers one-stop shopping and transformations at its make-up counterswhile Les Jeumelles, on nearby Church Lane, offers more high-fashion shoping.
0 of 3
This is the county that gave the world the milliner Philip Treacy and, while Treacy isn't stocked anywhere in the city, would-be successors abound. There's Mark T Burke, Mary White Millinery, Loughrea-based Suzie Mahony and Athenry-based Fiona Mangan who popped up at Brown Thomas, Galway during last year's Galway Races.
Less than €20: Books adorn every surface at Charlie Byrne's, with titles piled high. Many are second-hand. On any given day you'll see poets, writers and bibliophiles in its various corners tucking into something and perhaps losing an hour in the pleasure. Kevin Barry drops in when he's in town. So does local author Ken Bruen, whose hard-boiled crime character, Jack Taylor, also pays his respects to the Middle Street shop. And every Saturday at 11am Ruth Concannon reads to children, for free. Charlie Byrne's Bookshop, Cornstore Mall, Middle Street, 091-561 766, charliebyrne.com
Less than €50: Yes Flowers is a landmark on Cross Street. The contents spill out on to the street creating an alluring trail of foliage that tempts you in the door. Owners Mark Tierney and Raytus Gassner, originally from Lichenstein, pay an annual licence fee for this window dressing. They have introduced sheep figures that cost from €85 to €425. 13 Upper Cross Street, 091-564373, yesflowers.ie
Less than €100: In a town riffing with music you won't want to leave without convincing yourself that you will be able to learn how to play one of the city's classic session sounds, be it Galway Bay or Galway Girl. Head to P Powell and Sons, established in 1918, which sells sheet music, traditional music CDs and books as well as violins, guitars, ukeles, banjos and mandolins and you can hear shoppers trying out the instruments as soon as you cross its threshold. Proprietor Colm Powell's niece Sibéal is the third generation of the family to help run a shop at which Steve Earle, Cillian Murphy and Elijah Wood have made purchases.. P Powell and Sons, 53 William Street, Galway 091-562295
Less than €500: Premoli is a secret shoe address that sells – shock horror – comfortable fashionable shoes to professional women, with styles that work with the long days they spend on their feet. Established clientele have their new season footwear posted directly to them by owner Gemma Killilea, who runs this second-generation shop with her sister Hilary. Sourcing most of their designs direct from factories in Italy, all have leather uppers and lining, with many also boasting leather soles. The shop's Alessandro brand features traditional sacchetto construction methods where the lining is sewn into the boot as a separate pocket to give softness and flexibility. Courts cost from €130, and these metallic star-studded camel suede boots cost €195. Premoli, William Street, 091-566087
Over €500: Milliner Emily Jean O'Byrne runs a first-floor shop that stocks a ready-to-wear range of hats starting at €180. The designer, who trained at the London College of Fashion, also offers a couture range that uses heritage fabrics such as Magee tweeds and Irish lace. Pictured is a 'lily' bow beret made using Magee lilac tweed (€220) with matching fabric belt (€175). Atelier Emily Jean, First floor, 1 St Augustine Street, 091-530207; emily-jean.com; lovehats.com
Down Time: Don't leave town without making a pilgrimage to Sheridan's Cheesemongers on Church Yard Street, where the business began in 1995 as a market stall. Shop local by buying Killeen, a gouda style, Cais na Tire, a hard cheese made using sheep's cheese or Kilmora, an Emmental-style cheese, all made in Portumna. All three will travel relatively well.
This article was amended on April 21st 2016
