FASHION:By all means embrace the trend for oversized outerwear, but keep the contrasting items light and fitted, writes ROSEMARY McCABE

THIS SEASON’S autumn/ winter catwalks had – as they so often do – many themes. Gothic, S&M, geometric prints and the oversized cocoon, which were seen in trousers, sweaters, dresses and nowhere more than in coats. And the trend with the latter seems to be the bigger, the better.

If you’re looking for someone to blame, you could do worse than to lay yours at the feet of one Jil Sander, or perhaps Phoebe Philo, whose collection for Céline was all clean lines and figure-covering silhouettes. Even Balenciaga and Chloé, known for, respectively, modernity and femininity, bought into the trend, sending models down runways wearing pantaloons and oversized Crombie coats.

As with all things, this, too, shall trickle down to the high street, and although we wouldn’t advocate putting all of your cash on this one trend – it’s never wise to overhaul one’s style completely – there are certain elements worth incorporating into even the most pared-down wardrobe.

If you have a slim, boyish figure, look away now – you can pretty much wear any oversized item you please. They will serve only to make you look smaller as you shrink, like Alice in Wonderland, having munched on the mushroom, beneath layers of fabric. (I know, I know; it’s so tiresome to be thin, always being told you’re lucky and being ignored in matters of sartorial trickery. Take comfort in the fact that you rarely worry about how the sandwich you just ate will manifest on your thighs.)

For the rest of us, it’s all a matter of balance. For every oversized item you wear, you must also wear a contrasting item that is fitted, tight even, almost to the point of indecency.

The king of oversized cool on the high-street is Cos, and this simple blue shirt (1, €59) is the perfect example of taking a classic piece and incorporating it into a very current trend. Wear with skinny dark denims. But beware; if your bust size is more than ample, this particular brand of Swedish minimalism may not be for you.

If it’s glitz and glamour you’re after, William Tempest’s collaboration with River Island has produced this smock-like sequinned dress (2, €134), which looks fabulous with minimal make-up, tied-back hair and a pair of simple court shoes. Those of you who err on the side of caution may wish to belt it, but you’ll look much cooler if you let everything hang loose.

Simone Rocha’s animal-hide coat (3, €3,240 at Havana, Dublin 4) is a great example of the trend in outerwear – but can you imagine wearing it with anything other than a pair of cigarette pants or skinny jeans? Over flares, you would appear laughably cartoonish; worn with a floaty sundress, people would wonder if you were smuggling handbags beneath your layers.

In the case of Reiss’s emerald-green batwing top (4, €150), worn here with equally voluminous trousers (€175) – but the billowing fabrics are balanced by a belt, which proves that the wearer has a waist. Without this she would resemble a St Patrick’s Day parade float, a human who has been blown up and is in danger of floating away.

Asos.comkeeps things in proportion with its cookbook styling, too; this 1980s-style sweatshirt with padded shoulders (5, €49.40) is balanced out with a pair of leather-look leggings, chunky heels (€119.98) and an oversized handbag (€49.40). Keeping accessories chunky is another great tip to show the contrast between your body (in the leggings) and your fashion nous (enormous, as evidenced by your coat).

Old-school dilemma:  what to wear to a reunion

What should I wear to a school reunion with my former classmates at an all-girls school? I have a budget of €200 and I’m thinking about a tailored dress with funky shoes. The shoes are all-important.

Bairbre, via Twitter

The key to dressing for reunions – which are merely excuses to be nosy and to show off – is to look like the best version of yourself, so if you’re going to show up, a decade or two on from graduation, and tell all of your old school chums you’re working as an art teacher in a community college in Gorey, a new skirt suit is probably not the best idea.

This lace dress by South (below left) at littlewoodsireland.ie(€52) is a great all-rounder and perfect for going into the festive season – it's an LBD with added glitter. Aside from all that, it's really flattering, neither too short nor too revealing while still being figure-hugging and sexy, and with sleeves. Team it with these (left) gold peep-toe pumps from Dune (€115) to pick out the sequin detail on the lace, and add a fuchsia lip for a bit of colour.

This skater dress by Red Herring at Debenhams (€50) is a really flattering shape and lends itself to some calculated twirling around, especially paired with these bright red wedges from Office (€85). With what you've left over from your budget, you could throw this necklace from asos.com(€49.40) into the mix.

Advice on a little tuxedo jacket for nights out

I’m looking for a nice little tuxedo jacket to mix’n’match with dresses and trousers for nights out. Can you recommend any high-street outlets selling them at the moment? I’m probably a little out of season, but it’s worth a try.

Liz, by email

Lucky for you, Liz, classic workwear is never out of season, and, like it or not, that’s the bracket into which your day-to-night tuxedo jacket fits. You have a few options to choose from and, as you didn’t give me a budget, I’ve decided you’re quite sensible and would rather not spend more than €100, although, if you are willing to throw caution (and several bills) to the wind, there is one option for almost €200.

First up, this tux blazer from asos.com(€70.58) is a great length: long enough to drop below your belly button, yet short enough to stop above the hips, giving a nice hourglass shape and drawing attention to your waistline. If you have a boyish figure, this will give you a lovely hourglass shape; if you are an hourglass to begin with, this will flatter what you already have.

Zara’s version (€59.95) is slightly longer, meaning it’ll be perfect if you’re a little pear-shaped: it skims over the hips and will draw attention to the bust and legs, rather than to your thigh area. It’s quite a straight up-and-down shape so will create a nice vertical line with a slimming effect, and it’s perfect if you’re a little on the short side. It’s structured than the Asos number, so it may not suit over a cocktail dress, but will look great over something fitted.

Lastly, this zip jacket by Fran &Jane (€199) is a great option if you fancy trying out something different. It’s a gorgeous shape, giving any figure a nipped-in waist and round hips and bum, and it will look great zipped up over jeans, as a neat little top, and will add a little extra oomph to dresses, left open. It would also make a great suit jacket, paired with a navy pencil skirt.