It wasn't just the codless goujons that disappointed Tom Doorley on a visit to a former beacon for food lovers
"What exactly," I asked politely, "is in the goujons of seafood?" Our French waiter looked so bored that I felt he was on the brink of slumber. There was a pause and then, with great effort, he replied. "Fish," he said. "What kind of fish?" I asked, still reasonably politely, but possibly through clenched teeth. There was a longer pause. "Cod," he said.
It turned out to be the piece of cod that passeth all understanding, in that it wasn't cod at all. The goujons were strips of salmon, monkfish and bream, very lightly floured and deep-fried. They were dry, and fishier than I like fresh seafood to be, and they came with squiggles of pink sauce applied to the plate. It was a horrible starter, and when I mentioned this to our next waiter, who was English, the price was deducted from the bill.
Anyway, Waterford's Wine Vault is not quite what it used to be. It, too, used to do missionary work and was a beacon for lovers of good, but simple food in the south-east. And while the wine selection is as good as ever, I can't help feeling that the food needs to go back to the drawing board.
Our lunch for three wasn't unpleasant, but it didn't exactly sing. The goujons were exceptionally poor fare, but half a yellow pepper stuffed with goats' cheese and spinach was pretty passable, while a salad of local, smooth black pudding had the virtue of being a change from the usual chunky Clonakilty version.
A fish pie was more mashed potato than fish, and pretty uninspiring. This was particularly surprising as one of the best fish pies in the country is served every evening at McAlpin's Suir Inn at Cheekpoint, which is not very far away. Anyone who serves a fish pie in Co Waterford needs to reckon with the fact that most customers will be familiar with this benchmark. The Wine Vault's version suggests laziness in the kitchen. And I didn't inquire as to what was in it, in case I was told "fish". Life is too short.
A small, but flavoursome grilled sirloin steak came with a little ramekin of garlic butter and hand-cut chips, which made a pleasant change from the usual McCain's catering industry standard-issue sort. Nevertheless, as these chips came skins and all, I would have been happier had they been organic. Conventional spuds are sprayed to prevent sprouting. If you want proper organic chips, with skin, go to Itsa4 in Sandymount, Dublin 4.
Duck confit was largely as it should be, which is highly unusual in Irish restaurants these days. Because duck legs are cheap and can be slowly cooked in duck fat to produce something pretty tasty, they are a favourite with chefs throughout the land. Mind you, they can also be bought in, ready prepared. But the same goes for just about anything you care to order. It's only a matter of time before 95 per cent of restaurant kitchens will be concerned solely with opening the packet and re-heating.
This duck confit was, as I say, as it should be: crisp-skinned with moist, tender and flavoursome flesh. Don't get over-excited: this is simply how it should be. It came with a generous mound of colcannon and a dark reduction of sorts. Perfectly pleasant.
Bread and butter pudding, on the other hand, was the star of the meal. It was neither stodgy nor over-rich, and had plenty of vanilla and raisins. Done like this, bread and butter pudding is a real treat. Our other dessert was considerably less memorable. With coffees and two bottles of wine, the bill came to €123.10.
The Wine Vault High Street Waterford, 051-853444
WINE CHOICE David Dennison lists over 200 wines, and his knowledge and enthusiasm shine through. Our Umani Ronchi Verdicchio (€21) is probably the best version of this often bland Italian white: ripe, deep and yet fresh and crisp, and fantastic value. Our Escarot Crianza (€27) was a Tempranillo-based Navarra red with lots of fruit and oak, putting many a Ribera del Duero to shame. Other highlights include Peel Estate from Western Australia, with both the Verdelho (€28) and the Shiraz (€49); Domaine Pardon's serious Beaujolais (the silky Fleurie at €32), Daniel Dampt Chablis (€32), Tohu Sauvignon Blanc (€35) from New Zealand and Casas del Bosque from Chile.