GOING PLACES: The Tour de France concludes this weekend. But it's just one of many international cycle races. When Shane Stokes covered this year's Tour de Langkawi, his eyes opened to the beauty of Malaysia
For reasons that appear inexplicable now, Asia was never very high on my list of must-visit places. South America, Africa, Australia, New Zealand, and any as-yet unsampled corners of Europe; these were the places to fire the imagination. One visit to Malaysia later, a question needs asking: just what the heck was I thinking? The me before and the me after are two different people. My perceptions have changed, my values are different and my appreciation of the world has been transformed.
Malaysia is an intoxicating hotchpotch of sights, sounds, cultures and cuisines. Historically, the region was an important port of call on the trade route between India and China, and was later of great value to the Portuguese, Dutch and British empires. That history explains some of the many influences which colour the country, making it a swirl of diverse experiences. This diversity comes in part from the three main divisions of people: native Malay (or Bumiputra, literally "son of the soil"), Indian and Chinese.
The five big religions, Islam, Buddhism, Christianity, Hinduism and Sikhism, further accentuate this blend, producing a mix of architecture and clothing. Wooden churches, glittering mosques and hugely intricate Hindu temples, complete with wildly colourful statuettes of their gods, are scattered throughout the countryside. Chinese arches and temples further contribute to the culture. Indeed, this culture has spilled over to modern buildings, with the breathtaking Petronas Towers in Kuala Lumpur drawing on Islamic influences.
One of the most memorable aspects of the country was the warmth of the people. Being part of the Tour de Langkawi entourage heightened the reception, with hordes of screaming, cheering, clapping spectators lining the roadside. But the fact that this passionate greeting extended to the journalists, race officials and other workers rather than just the riders made a big impression. Being a mere scribe, but being made feel like a rock star, was certainly a first.
Reporting on a cycling race is an unusual but interesting way to see a country and soak up some of what it has to offer. Constant relocation is the order of the day. The Tour de Langkawi race entourage follow the riders for 1,250 kilometres over 10 days. Flatlands, seascapes, tropical jungles and high, high mountains were the backdrop for the two-wheeled tussles.
The event began on Penang, an island on the north-west of the peninsula popularly known as the "Pearl of the Orient". Outstanding beaches and exotic sights are a feature, as are the many mosques, churches, temples and elegant British colonial buildings found in the local capital, Georgetown. The race wound south and then northward again, via Ipoh, Tampin, Johor Bahru and Melaka, passing vast rubber and palm tree plantations, humid jungles, climbing to the high mountain finishes of the Cameroon and Genting Highlands and finally reaching the country's bustling capital of Kuala Lumpur. For those working on the race, it was a perfect overview of the western half of the country, an Odyssey that showed much of Malaysia's beauty.
That said, spare a thought for the riders who would have missed some of its charms, because of the effort required to race a bike at that speed and in those temperatures (during February, Malaysia basked in 35 degrees).
The stage-two finish at the hilltop town of Tanah Rata was a real case in point. The final 60 kilometres climbed upward on roads boarded by lush rainforest, the mysterious tropical jungle filled with rare vegetation and wildlife. I'd always wanted to see such a place, alas the impending stage finish meant there was no time to explore further, but the loud chirping and clicking of thousands of insects audible above the engine of the car set a truly atmospheric tone.
Speaking with Irish rider Eugene Moriarty after the stage, I commented on what for me was an amazing noise. The response was unexpected. "I've no idea what you mean," he said. "I was riding so hard that I didn't notice a thing."
For Moriarty and the other riders on the Hibernian-Ireland team, that involuntarily-blinkered view is justification to go back. I, on the other hand, fully soaked up the sights, sounds and experiences on the trip, and so have no such excuse. That won't stop me though; I've been converted to Asia and will be heading back to the country again soon. South America, Africa, Australia and New Zealand have slipped down the pecking order.
GETTING THERE A number of travel agents operate tours to Malaysia, including Joe Walsh Tours (01-6789555), Club Travel (01-5005566), Destinations (01-8556677) and Twohigs (01-6772666). While there are no direct flights from Ireland, a number of companies, including Malaysian Airlines (01-6761561), fly from the UK. See www.flightcomparison.co.uk for carriers and deals.
PLACES TO VISIT Malaysia's capital, Kuala Lumpur, is full of things to see, although the real beauty does lie in the more rural parts. The famed Petronas Twin Towers is the highest building in the world and is a truly magnificent sight at night. About 60 kilometres away are the Batu Caves, a sacred Hindu site. Although the surrounding area is built-up, the striking rock formations, huge cave chambers, colourful religious statues and hundreds of "wild" monkeys keen on hand-feeding make this a surreal, but enjoyable experience. The beautiful Langkawi Islands lie to the North of peninsular Malaysia. The archipelago features 104 tropical islands, complete with sublime beaches and luxurious resorts.
COSTS The Malaysian ringgit can be purchased at a rate of about 4.5 MR to the euro. Prices are low, especially outside the usual tourist haunts. There is a roaring trade in black market DVDs, CDs, watches and other goods in bigger cities. Eating out is very inexpensive, especially at hawker stalls. Despite Malaysia's predominant Muslim population, its diverse ethnicity means that rules are more relaxed. Pork and alcohol can be bought, although both may be unavailable in strongly Muslim areas.
TOUR DE LANGKAWI The Tour, which takes place in February, began six years ago, to promote cycle racing in Asia, and to boost international awareness of the country. Heavily backed by companies such as Telekom Malaysia, the race has reportedly the fourth-highest budget of cycling races. Irish organiser Pat McQuaid has been involved since the beginning and there is a small but significant presence from Ireland. This year that presence extended to a seven-man amateur team which distinguished itself against the professionals. Eugene Moriarty, David McCann and Philip Deignan took several top-10 placings, with McCann and Deignan finishing 14th and 16th overall.