This time of year sees a wave of wine tastings. Joe Breen dives in
Phew. Run that by me again. How many wines? How many tastings? How many hints of fresh fruit with vanilla notes can one man stand? This is the time when the wine business wakes from summer slumber and realises that Christmas is horribly close and that the drinking and selling season is upon us. So there are tastings aplenty: big ones, small ones, posh ones and memorable ones.
That was the case when the Wine Bunch held its tasting at the Harbourmaster Bar, in the IFSC, in Dublin. Four small but discerning operations - Wicklow Wine Company, Tyrell Wines, Wineknows and Inis Wines - were showing new wines and some old reliables. It was the first time they had come together to show their wines, and so successful was the event, said Michael Anderson of Wicklow Wine Company, that they will probably do it again.
Pooling their resources meant they could reach a wider audience and get the message across of "small companies doing amazing wines at good prices". He added that the four companies were now looking at ways they could help each other to compete with bigger operations. Certainly, there was a buzz in the packed room as we tasted some cracking wines, all of which are sourced individually, often from small producers.
WICKLOW WINE CO 0404-66767, wicklowwineco@eircom.net
Wines available from Wicklow Wine Company, Main Street, Wicklow
Michael Anderson and his partner, Ben Mason, of Wicklow Wine Company, got us off to a galloping start with a couple of remarkable German Rieslings from the Mosel vineyards of Max Ferd Richter, including a wonderfully honeyed Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese 2003 (€19.50), which clocks in at a remarkably lightweight 8 per cent alcohol. From the Loire, J Mourat's Sacré Blanc 2004 (€13.50) was a tempting, bone-dry, fruity Chenin Blanc. Le Clos 2000 (€31.75), the high-end wine from the excellent Domaine d'Aupilhac, in the Languedoc, justified its high-end price with a rich and mellow combination of flavours.
TYRELL WINES 045-870882, simon@tyrellandcompany.com.
Some or all wines can be found at Donnybrook Fair, Dublin; Jus De Vine, Portmarnock, Co Dublin; the Big Wine Warehouse, Naas Road, Dublin; Redmond's, Ranelagh, Dublin; Vanilla Grape, Kenmare, Co Cork; Cana Wine, Mullingar, Co Westmeath; the Vineyard, Galway
Then to Simon Tyrell, of Tyrell Wines, who led us on a tour of the North and South Rhône, with memorable stops at Condrieu (Domaine du Monteillet 2004, €36) and Côte-Rôtie Les Rochains 2003 (Domaine Christophe et Patrick Bonnefond, €67). These bottles are the stuff of dreams (or big expense accounts), but the Bonnefonds' Syrah 2004 (€14.50) was also impressive, albeit more humbly. Another lively, peppery red worth checking out was Mas de Fondrèche's Côte du Ventoux 2004 (€11.50). Tyrell's own blend, Plume Bleue Rouge 2004, is a steal at €8.99.
WINEKNOWS 01-2108162, arabella@wineknows.com
Stockists include: Grape Escape, Lucan, Co Dublin; Cabot & Co, IFSC, Dublin; On the Grapevine, Booterstown and Dalkey, Co Dublin; Connoisseur Wine, Dundalk; World Wide Wines, the Cove Centre, Waterford
Gabriel Cooney and Liam Cabot of Wineknows had lots of tempting wines, not least from their Italian connections, plus two outstanding Kiwi offerings, the Felton Road Chardonnay 2003 (€27.99) and Pinot Noir 2003 (€38.99). Both are hugely impressive, with stunning fruit and structure; the Pinot is really special. From Puglia, the Salice Salentino Riserva Anticaia 2001 (€14.99) was smooth and rich. The small Piedmont house of Boroli offered a silky and seductive Barolo 1999 (€39.99) and a reserved but lovely Langhe Rosso 2003 (€15.99).
INIS WINES 074-9542940, iniswines@eircom.net
Available in a number of shops, including: Grape Escape, Lucan, Co Dublin; Red Island Wines, Skerries, Co Dublin; Baily Wines, Howth, Co Dublin; Bin No 9, Goatstown, Dublin; Claudio's, Dublin; Cheers, Ballinteer, Dublin; O'Donovan's, Cork; Morton's, Salthill, Galway; the Vineyard, Galway; Gaffney's, Ballina and Castlebar, Co Mayo
Then to Inis Wines, where the focus was mainly on Australia. The La Testa Chardonnay 2002 (€24.90), from Classic McLaren Wines, was big and complex, with attractive fruit. The Irish connection, in the shape of Setanta Wines, from Adelaide Hills, offered four wines, all notable, particularly the Emer Chardonnay 2004 (€18.85), with its buttery texture and citrus fruit, and the heady spiciness of the Cuchalain Shiraz 2003 (€19.35).
Available from Oddbins outlets nationwide
A few days later it was the turn of the British chain to showcase its winter offerings. There were 145 bottles to taste, and although I didn't get around to everything, the quality appeared quite variable. Of the whites, I liked the refreshing 2005 Flagstone "Fish Hoek" Sauvignon Blanc, South Africa (€9.49); the rich 2004 Otra Vida Viognier, Mendoza, Argentina (€7.99); and the luscious 2003 Amelia Chardonnay from the Casablanca Valley, Chile (€22.29). Of the reds, the delicious 2003 Marqués de la Concordia Tempranillo (€9.49) was great value, as was the well-made Argentine duo of 2004 Trivento Merlot Malbec, from Mendoza (€6.49), and Otra Vida Tempranillo (€7.99). The high end was well served by the formidable 2002 Casa Silva, Quinta Generación from Chile (€18.49); the intense fruit of Fox Creek JSM, McLaren Vale (€19.99); and the awesome Lengs & Cooter pair of 2002 Old Vine Shiraz, from the Clare Valley (€27.49), and 2002 Reserve Shiraz, from McLaren Vale (€34.99). Some of these wines have yet to arrive in branches.
BERRY BROS & RUDD
Available in Berry Brothers & Rudd, Harry Street, Dublin 2
Oddbins's well-bred British compatriot also held an enjoyable tasting in its shop; the bottles included an attractive, light, biscuity champagne, NV André Jacquart Carte Blanche, 1er Cru, which was reasonable at €31.40. Other prices were more daunting, such as €40.75 for Domaine Sylvian Cathiard's velvety 2001 Vosne- Romaneé. Wines to note included Domaine des Deux Roches, Davayé 2004 St Veran, Les Chailloux (€14.95); 2005 Santa Celina Pinot Gris (€9.95); Domaine de Colombier's 2001 Crozes-Hermitage (€18.50); Van Volxem's 2002 Saar Riesling (€14.95); Roberto Bava's 2003 Cadodo, Monferrato (€15.95); and the Australian Brookland Valley's 2002 Verse 1 Cabernet-Merlot (€13.95).