After the emergency, it was said the best thing we could do for tsunami-hit countries was to keep going back. Besides stunning stretches of coastline - most of the coastal hotels have by now been repaired - Sri Lanka has numerous other attractions. Below are five worth making the journey for
The Cultural Triangle Defined by the three points of Kandy, Anuradhapura and Polonnaruwa, the triangle is a Unesco World Heritage Site. Anuradhapura, Sri Lanka's sacred city, is scattered with shrines, ruins, monuments and striking white dagabas, or relic chambers. The Sri Maha Bodhi tree, grown from a sapling from the bo tree under which the Buddha gained enlightenment, is also in Anuradhapura. Polonnaruwa was Sri Lanka's medieval capital between the 11th and 13th centuries. Its sites include the Gal Vihara (Cave of the Spirits of Knowledge), a rock shrine of several sculpted masterpieces of Buddhist Sinhalese art.
Kandy was the final holdout of Buddhist political power in the face of colonial forces. Kandy's most famous site is the Temple of the Tooth, which houses, according to legend, a tooth of the Buddha smuggled to Sri Lanka after his cremation, in the sixth century BC, in India. Site of a royal citadel constructed in 5th century AD, the 200m high Lion Rock of Sigiriya and its grounds consist of a stunning arrangement of palace, frescoes and water gardens.
Adam's Peak Considered sacred by followers of Sri Lanka's four major religions - the "footprint" at the top is interpreted differently by Buddhists, Hindus, Muslims and Catholics - Adam's Peak is Sri Lanka's second-highest mountain (2,243m, 7,359ft) and certainly its most dramatic. There are two paths, the Father's Path (25km, 15½ miles) and the Mother's Path (7km, 4½ miles). At 3am on Christmas morning we set out on the Mother's Path, which was arduous enough. We reached the summit, where the ritual ringing of the bell takes place, in time for sunrise.
The view from the peak is magnificent, and the clear, cold air a break from the humidity of the low-lying regions. The descent was more spectacular, as we could see the verdant slopes and waterfalls. Climbing season runs from December to May, during which food and tea stalls line the path and a somewhat carnivalesque atmosphere prevails.
Rafter's Retreat Operated by Channa Perera on the grounds of his great-grandfather's estate in Kitulgala, this unique outpost, less than 100km (62 miles) from Colombo, is worlds away from any other Sri Lankan "hotel". For starters, the bedrooms are tree houses, overlooking the Kelaniya river. The wall facing onto the water is an open lattice of branches. The second great thing is that there is no artificial noise, no piped music, no bass thump from any nearby bar. Just the sound of the river. The third wonder is the food, which is excellent. There are also three standard rooms in the colonial-style home. Besides white-water rafting trips and jungle trails, the retreat is a birdwatcher's paradise.
Ayurveda Ayurveda, which means the science (or knowledge) of life, is a holistic system of medicine that originated in India more than 5,000 years ago. Sri Lanka has several Ayurveda centres. The Ayurveda Pavilions is in Negombo, the closest resort to the international airport. It offers a range of live-in treatment programmes, from three to 30 days, as well as single treatments for walk-ins. Ayurveda and massage treatments are also available at one of the island's most beautiful hotels, the Lighthouse, in Galle. Designed by Sri Lanka's most acclaimed architect, Geoffrey Bawa, it overlooks the Indian Ocean. Its open plan allows ocean breezes to filter continuously through. If you can't stay, at least have a drink on the patio.
Sinharaja Biosphere Reserve Of international importance for its biodiversity, the Sinharaja Rainforest covers almost 77sq km (30sq miles). Sinharaja is the only major rainforest in the country that is promoted for public use, though the difficulty of access and lack of nearby hotels mean it is far from over-run. Beloved by birdwatchers, the forest also is home to leopards, monkeys, water monitors and an array of dazzling butterflies. There are leeches, too, which come out in force when it rains, so prepare yourself with Tiger Balm and boots. A 90-minute drive is Ratnapura, the gem centre of Sri Lanka, where the Ratnaloka Tour Inn is located, a hotel with a modern interior set in enchanting grounds, a good place for a hot bath after a rainforest downpour.