Black-eyed beans make hearty stews, creamy curries and speedy salads.
I first ate black-eyed beans at a roadside cafe in India that my companions rated as one of the best places in town. We ate fresh chapattis wrapped around spoonfuls of endless vegetarian dishes; the creaminess of the black-eyes was overlayed with layers of spicing.
As with all pulses, you need to eat them with a grain to turn them from simple to complex proteins. Our feast was based on bread. Black-eyes turn up as far apart as the US and Africa,
teamed with rice or ground with other grains to form cakes or patties (which seems a shame with these beans, as they lose their patterned skins, and the resulting pulp takes on a decidedly grey appearance).
Whether to use tinned or dried beans is a common question. Dried will certainly give you more character, but tins offer flexibility and convenience, including the ability to make
instant bean salads. Runner or French beans work particularly well when dressed hot. Their flesh absorbs flavours.
Consider a mustardy vinaigrette or a creamy chive or parsley dressing.
Indian curries highlight beans' affinity with spices, but look also to the herbs and tomatoes of southern Europe, the smoked hams and sausages of northern Europe and the chillies and coriander of Mexico. Today's first recipe is inspired by the cozidas of Portugal and fabadas of northern Spain.
Recipes serve four
ROAST COD, BLACK-EYED BEANS AND CHORIZO
4 grilling chorizo, sliced
olive oil
1 red onion, peeled and finely sliced
1 stick celery, finely diced
1 carrot, finely diced
2 tins black-eyed beans, rinsed and drained
2 garlic cloves, peeled and finely chopped
2 tbsp finely chopped parsley
1 tsp finely chopped rosemary
½ chicken stock cube
4 fillets of cod
1 lemon, trimmed and quartered
Saute the chorizo in a frying pan over a moderate heat with a scant tablespoon of olive oil. Set the chorizo aside and add the red onion, celery and carrot to the remaining oil.
Saute gently for 10 minutes before adding the black-eyed beans, garlic, parsley and rosemary. Gently saute, turning all the time, for two minutes, or until everything is well coated in oil. Add the stock cube and enough water almost to cover. Lower the heat and simmer uncovered for 30 minutes, or until syrupy. You can do all of this in advance.
Heat the oven to 200 degrees/gas six. Lightly brush the fish with olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Bake on a roasting tray for five to 10 minutes, or until cooked.
Reheat the beans, stirring in the chorizo. Spoon the mixture on to four plates, top with the fish and serve with a lemon quarter each.
BLACK-EYED BEANS WITH SOURED CREAM, SPINACH AND TORTILLAS
5 tbsp olive oil
1 onion, peeled and chopped
5 cloves garlic (2 of them peeled and finely chopped, 3 of them lightly bruised)
2 chillies, finely chopped
1 dessertspoon finely chopped rosemary
1 dessertspoon finely chopped sage
1 400g tin tomatoes
2 x 400g tins black-eyed beans, rinsed and drained
bunch fresh coriander, roughly chopped
600g spinach, washed and destemmed
4 tbsp soured cream
8 floured tortillas, wrapped in tin foil and warmed in a low oven
Heat two tablespoons of the olive oil in a frying pan, then saute the onion over a medium heat until it is just starting to colour. Add the finely chopped garlic, chilli, rosemary and sage, cook for two minutes, then add the tomatoes. Cook for five minutes, then add the beans. Season with salt and pepper and simmer for 20 minutes. You may need to add a little water to stop it drying out.
Heat the three remaining tablespoons of olive oil in a wide pan over a low heat with the lightly bruised cloves of garlic. Remove and discard the garlic as it starts to colour. Add the spinach, and stir-fry so it wilts. Season with salt and pepper.
Serve the beans with the spinach, top with the coriander and cream, and serve with the warmed tortillas on the side.
BLACK-EYED BEAN CURRY
3 tbsp vegetable oil
3 onions, peeled and chopped
2 garlic cloves, peeled and chopped
3cm piece of ginger, peeled and grated
2 chillies
2 tsp ground coriander
1 tsp ground cumin
½ tsp ground turmeric
1 400g tin chopped tomatoes
2 400g tins black-eyed beans, rinsed and drained
juice of 1 lemon
bunch coriander, roughly chopped
Heat the vegetable oil; when it is hot, add the onions. Saute over a medium heat for 10 minutes, until soft and lightly coloured. Add the garlic, ginger, chilli and spices and continue cooking for two minutes. Stir in the tomatoes and cook over a medium heat for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add the beans and a glass of water. Simmer for 20 minutes, stirring occasionally. Check the seasoning, then stir in the lemon juice to taste. Add the coriander, then serve.