ABOUT FACE:Black skin ages slower than white skin, but requires protection from the elements, writes Phyl Clarke
WHEN I LIVED in Australia, I was often heard to whinge that this was "no place for the fluorescent white Irish" as the temperatures soared above the 40s. I came to the realisation that there was a perfectly good reason indigenous people living near the equator had skin the colour of ebony. Wise mother nature gives people living in extreme climates extra sun protection built into their genetic make-up in the form of increased melanin, or pigment, and this is one of the reasons black skin ages at a slower rate.
Looking younger is a plus in a frustrating sea of limitations faced by women of colour. However, while darker skin tends to be oily, many make the mistake of thinking that a moisturiser isn't necessary. This could not be further from the truth, as all skin needs to be both balanced and protected from the sun. Without such care, black skin can become irregularly pigmented by the ageing process.
With most of the major brands, there is a marked trailing off of darker hues when you get to the deeper tan shades of foundation, the exceptions being MAC, Bobbi Brownand Australian cult brand Becca(available at Harvey Nichols), which cater well for darker tones off the shelf. Prescriptivesis the only brand offering custom-blended foundation for any skin colour. I spoke to their make-up maestro Gary Brunker, who offered some advice for getting it right. "The most common misconception about foundation is that it gives colour to the complexion. This is not correct, and the answer is in the name itself - foundation. That's exactly what it is, a base or blank canvas to build colour on to.
"There's far too much red in most off-the-shelf foundations. Here we can add green to balance complexion and pink to lift it."
The most high-profile brand dedicated to black skin was created by Somalian former model Iman, who was spurred on to create her own range when she couldn't find the products she wanted and saw a gap in the market which she neatly filled with her own mega-successful range.
The Imanrange is available on a website dedicated to black hair, beauty and skincare, www.afrotherapy.com. The site is full of looks and tips, an ask-the-expert section and it will deliver to Ireland.
The Imanrange is also available at selected Debenhams stores. All that success and she got David Bowie too . . . lucky girl!
When it comes to colour, darker skins can pull off dramatic colours and look great with strong bold shades, which are bang on trend right now. The Narscounter boasts incredibly pigmented and vivid shades, reminding me of an artist's palette each time I pass by its counter.
A good rule of thumb is, the darker your skin tone, the stronger the colour you can pull off. Focus on eyes or lips, not both. For full-on glamour, metallic eye shades look incredible on black skin, but be sure to keep the rest of your look simple with no hint of shimmer in any other product.
When it comes to hair care and styling, modern women no longer have to live with the hair they were born with. The kinky haired, like myself, can now choose from an infinite number of styling options: naturally curly, chemically straightened, thermal pressed, cold waved, braided, dreadlocked and more.
As curly hair tends towards frizziness, good conditioning is essential. Use the techniques and products to make the most of your natural assets but decide how much time you are willing to put into your hair before embarking on a style.