Jansz Premium Non Vintage Brut Cuvée, South Eastern Australia, Domaine Pierre de Préhy Chablis, Jean-Marc Brocard 2001/2, Perrin & Fils Vacqueyras Les Christins 2001 and Paul Cluver Weisser Riesling, Noble Late Harvest, Elgin 2003.
Jansz Premium Non Vintage Brut Cuvée, South Eastern Australia. Using grapes from cool Tasmania as well as Victoria and Southern Australia, this is a beautifully refined sparkling wine from a company originally set up as a partnership with leading champagne house Louis Roederer and now owned by the fine old Australian family company of Yalumba. You'll find a delicate layer of creamy softness cushioning lemon crispness. An eye-opener with all-round appeal. From Oddbins, €20.45.
Domaine Pierre de Préhy Chablis, Jean-Marc Brocard 2001/2. Looking back, I see that I recommended the 2001 last Christmas. It's still delicious, but giving way to 2002. Brocard is a master at capturing glorious ripe flavours without losing the zesty minerality that is the hallmark of great Chablis - at a very decent price. From Marks & Spencer, €15.99. (The Brocard Domaine Sainte Claire Chablis 2002 is equally delicious. From McCabes, Blackrock & Gables, Foxrock; Redmonds, Ranelagh; Pettitts in south-east; Karwigs, Carrigaline, about €16.95; still on special offer from O'Briens, €13.99.)
Perrin & Fils Vacqueyras Les Christins 2001. From the family company responsible for the southern Rhône's grandest Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Château de Beaucastel, this Vacqueyras packs in heaps of immediate appeal at a fraction of the price. Dark autumn fruits are layered with subtle spice and a hint of chocolate in a smooth, rich mouthful with welcome freshness in the finish. A guaranteed turkey treat. From Berry Bros, Harry St, €16.95.
Paul Cluver Weisser Riesling, Noble Late Harvest, Elgin 2003. This is a wonderfully elegant, sweet wine from South Africa which comes in a wonderfully elegant bottle. Hints of muscatel raisins and candied peel pick up on the fruit flavours in the pudding, leading to a long, citrussy, reviving finish. From Sweeneys, Dorset St; Donnybrook Fair, Donnybrook; Vintry, Rathgar; Cheers-Silver Granite, Palmerstown; Mill, Maynooth; Wine Centre, Kilkenny; O'Neills, Carrickmacross; Terrys, Limerick, and others. A half bottle is about €14.95.