Clos Des Papes 2003, Châteauneuf-Du-Pape, 14.5%, €45-50 (€540 a case from Kelly's): Clos Des Papes is a great wine and this vintage is considered one of the greatest.
Huge dense fruit aromas are followed by a perfectly measured blend of richness and elegance and a finish that goes on forever. Kelly's Resort Hotel, Rosslare, Co Wexford; Jus De Vine, Portmarnock; Redmonds, Ranelagh; Donnybrook Fair, Dublin.
Il Favot, Poderi Aldo Conterno 2003, Piedmont, 13%, €33(in six-bottle case, reduced from €45) This was the only red wine made by Conterno from the sun-scalded 2003 vintage (he made none in rain-afflicted 2002), and every worthwhile Nebbiola grape from even his top vineyards went into the pot. As such, this is a special wine, and a fine one at that.
From Best Cellars, Templeogue, Dublin 16 (ph: 01 4946508)
Engelbrecht Els 2003, Stellenbosch, 14.5%, €17(reduced from €25 in February sale) Ernie's baby (the golfer co-owns the estate) is more brute drive than deft chip, with dark, dense fruit and creamy peppery intensity from its blend of mainly Cabernet and Shiraz. There is also a striking sweetness on the palate, but the smooth, dry finish needs food - preferably a juicy home-made hamburger - to make it swing. O'Briens