1980s REVISITED: The pick of 1980s wines
Jacob's Creek Shiraz Cabernet southeastern Australia 2006, 14%, €8.59
The wine that launched a country. JC was first released in 1976, arriving on these shores in the mid-1980s, and has been one of the great success stories in Aussie wine, selling some 80 million bottles worldwide. The first importer of Jacob's Creek, Brendan O'Brien of O'Briens, remembers it selling at €4.99. It now comes in a wide range of colours and varieties, some of them very good indeed. The Shiraz-Cabernet has pleasant, rounded, ripe plum and cassis fruits, a good kick of alcohol and an easy finish. Good easy-drinking wine. Stockists:Widely available nationwide from multiples and most off-licences.
Emrich Schönleber Monzinger Riesling Kabinett 2007, Nahe, 9%, €21.85
Riesling Kabinett was the height of sophistication in the early 1980s. Sadly, cheap wines, a scandal and changing tastes did damage to the popularity of the German wine, and it is only now starting to recover. A Kabinett is a light off-dry wine that makes the most wonderful aperitif - delicate but full of subtle fruit. This particular example, from the brilliant 2007 vintage, is a sensational blend of honey, lemon zest and minerals - super, perfectly balanced wine. I would serve it before the meal at a very posh dinner party. Stockists: Redmond's in Ranelagh, Wicklow Wine Co in Wicklow.
Château Fourcas-Hosten, Listrac-Médoc 2005, 13%,€23
I remember being given a birthday present of the 1978 vintage of this, circa 1984, when it probably cost around €9. It is a wine that has been consistently stocked by O'Briens since the 1970s. A solid performer rather than a star, it is, however, a very satisfying glass of wine. The 2005 is still a bit young, but has good, peppery blackcurrant fruit, subtle oak flavours, and some drying tannins on the finish. Try it with red meats. Stockists:O'Briens off-licences
Domaine de la Chauvinière, Muscadet de Sèvre & Maine sur lie 2006, 12%, €8.99
Back in the early 1980s, no drinks party or dinner was complete without a bottle of Muscadet. As demand grew, quality dipped and for many years, most Muscadet was barely drinkable. However in recent years, there have been huge improvements and Muscadet from a good producer offers great value. Light, zesty citrus, clean melon and green-apple fruits, a rich underlying yeastiness and a crisp, dry length. What more could you want from a wine? Stockists:O'Briens off-licences