Niepoort Vertente, Douro 2005, 13.5%, €20.95One of the most thoughtful and intelligent producers around, Dirk Niepoort has been to the forefront of the efforts to make table wines in the Douro. He also makes very good Port, Tawny-style in particular. I love his table wines; they are subtle, complex wines that make you think.
Made mainly from grapes grown on north-facing, cooler vineyards, these are light-years away from the baked style you might expect from such a hot climate. The Redoma is one of my all-time favourites, but at around €35 a bottle, it needs a special occasion. The next level down, Vertente, is excellent too, an elegant wine with firm red fruits, a refreshing mineral streak, and a long dry finish. It goes perfectly with most red meats. I had mine with lightly spiced pork chops. Wicklow Wine Co; Morton's, Hatch Street, Dublin; Fallon & Byrne, Exchequer St; Red Island Wine Company; Redmonds, Ranelagh; On the Grapevine, Dalkey; Louis Albrouze, Leeson Street; McHugh's, Kilbarrack; Jus de Vine, Portmarnock; Mitchell & Son, IFSC.
Crasto Douro 2006, 14%, €12.50Quinta do Crasto sits halfway up the valley slopes with breathtaking views in all directions. The property of the Roquette family, it is looked after by brothers Miguel and Tomás. With the assistance of an Australian oenologist, they fashion some very fine wines. The Crasto remains one of the best-value wines from the region. It has lovely rich, ripe cherry and redcurrants, with a liveliness, a light spiciness and plenty of intensity. A perfect warmer for the cold nights ahead. Wines Direct
Quinta do Vale Dona Maria 2002, 13.5%, €34.75This Quinta is owned by Cristiano van Zellar, the man who put Port house Quinta do Noval back on the map. He is assisted by former model, now winemaker, Sandra Tavares de Silva. The 2002 is firm and dry with sour cherry and damson fruits. It is not a wine to be approached without food, but went very nicely with chicken cous cous. 64 Wine, Glasthule; The Kingdom, Tralee; Approach Trade, Carrick-on-Suir, Tipperary (051-640164).
Vallado, Douro 2006, 14%, €14.99Cheapskate that I am, I preferred this to the Reserva from the same house at twice the price. It has lovely pure concentrated plums with a nice tannic kick on the finish. Great value wine that I will certainly return to. Try it with roast belly of pork. Fallon & Byrne, Exchequer Street, Dublin 2.