I want to go back to Brasil Churrascaria, because this time we ordered the Brazilian barbecue, which was perfectly pleasant, and ignored the rest of the menu. So I deprived myself of the chance to taste such dishes as hake with breadcrumbs (€16), bacalhau espiritual (€17), cozido à Portuguesa (€19.95) and moqueca de camarao (€22.95).
Prices are not high, as you can see. The same is true of the wine list, from which you can drink well for as little as €15.50. Add delightful and charming, if slightly linguistically challenged, service and you have a recipe for a good night out without having to worry too much about the mortgage repayments.
Bacalhau is, of course, Portuguese salt cod, cozido is a stew and moqueca involves shrimps. In the event, we went the blatantly carnivorous route - and had the most expensive bottle of wine on the list (something that would not be feasible in many other establishments), which brought the bill to €100. This takes a certain amount of effort.
When we arrived, caipirinhas - Brazilian cocktails involving booze, lime juice, a lot of sugar and two little straws - were more or less pressed into our hands. Halfway through these Molotov cocktails, delicious though they are, a sense of tranquillity and lethargy descended. It's amazing that this stuff is legal.
And so we needed, as they say, no second bidding to order the barbecue. While it was sizzling away in the background we were invited to a buffet of salads. I didn't count, but I reckon there's a choice of about 50.
There was Russian salad (which the Continentals adore and we always thought was invented by Heinz in the 1960s), tiny pak choi in a sharp dressing, artichoke hearts, tomato with mozzarella, glorious salt cod with chickpeas, palm hearts, roasted red peppers, lots of salami and prosciutto, hard-boiled eggs with a dollop of pink mayonnaise, tuna, anchovies . . . Well, that's what we had. With little hot balls of bread flavoured with cheese.
The barbecue is pretty straightforward. There were slices of steak, pink in the middle and nicely smoky, some well-done lamb, some chicken, dark and mysterious sausages and some belly pork.
The steak was the firm favourite; the sausages, while doubtless very authentic, were a little strong for me. There was an unusual and earthy black-bean broth for dipping, finely diced crunchy vegetables in a sharp liquid base, and toasted cassava flour for sprinkling.
This was a protein-lover's idea of paradise. It's a shame it has arrived in Dublin too late for the height of the Atkin's diet, but doubtless there are people who are carefully watching
their glycaemic indexes. They can
relax here. The deep-fried breaded banana chunks that accompany
the barbecue might be off limits, but
the crunchy cubes of cassava are
better than chips and relatively low on carbs.
The chef-proprietor is Tomás Mascarenhas (left), a Portuguese-born US citizen, who headed the kitchen at Plantation in New York before it fell victim to the post-9/11 lull in eating out. His Upper Stephen Street restaurant is a far cry from that frenetic 350-seater, but he is bringing something unusual and authentic to Dublin.
This is a very modest little restaurant, probably run on a shoestring, so don't expect cheffy food and stylish presentation. It's honest stuff, with no frills, offering keen value, and the people who run it are charming. We need a lot more places like it.
Our bill came to €100.90, but there was enough to feed four and we had the dearest wine on the list, plus a couple of caipirinhas at €7 each. I reckon you could get out for about €60 for two with judicious ordering.
tdoorley@irish-times.ie
Brasil Churrascaria, 17 Upper Stephen Street, Dublin 2, 01-4053854
Framingham Sauvignon Blanc, from New Zealand, is a steal at €16.25. Although Babich Pinot Noir may not be the best Kiwi red, it's amazing value at €15.50. Campillo Rioja Reserva is glorious stuff at a very keen €33, bearing in mind that this is one of the region's best bodegas. Pegos Claros, from Palmela, made from the Periquita grape, dark and tannic, is a mere €24. Our Quinta de Pancas Assemblage, a blend of Cabernet, Merlot and Touriga Nacional, is €27 and worth considerably more. I don't know Alentejo Reguengos, but the region tends to produce big, spicy reds, and the price tag of €24 would hardly buy you a house wine in more fashionable establishments. Monte Velho Esporão sounds interesting at €33.