Cooking in:I'm a devil for running behind in the kitchen. A cup of tea is always such a good idea, as is making a loaf of bread before getting on with the main task at hand, writes Hugo Arnold
So I try to cook well in advance, making wonderful slow roasts and braises - a shoulder of lamb or pork can be rendered mouth-wateringly sweet and tender by slow, low cooking.
SHOULDER OF PORK WITH WINTER COLESLAW
Serves eight
For the pork:
1 dsp fennel seeds
1 tbsp finely chopped rosemary
2 tbsp finely chopped parsley
3 garlic cloves, chopped
olive oil
3kg boned shoulder of pork (ask your butcher to deeply score the skin but leave it unrolled)
300ml white wine
300ml full-fat milk
Crush the fennel seeds in a pestle and mortar, then combine with the rosemary, parsley and garlic. Season with salt and pepper, then stir in enough olive oil to form a paste. Spread this on the inside of the meat, roll up and tie with cotton string. (This is not as difficult as it sounds, although butchers tend to make a neater job of it.)
Preheat the oven to 220 degrees/gas seven. Drizzle a little olive oil on the outside of the meat, season well with salt and roast for 25 minutes or until the skin starts to crisp. Turn the oven down to 150 degrees/gas two. Pour in the wine and return the tray to the oven for an hour, basting two or three times. Add the milk, return to the oven and cook for a further hour, basting two or three times.
Turn the oven back up to 220 degrees/gas seven. Drain off the liquid, then roast the meat for a final 25 minutes. Turn the oven off and leave the door open, allowing the meat to rest for 15 minutes. Remove the crackling and cut into pieces. Carve the meat and serve with the pan juices.
For the winter coleslaw:
1 small white cabbage
1 small red cabbage
2 tbsp finely chopped parsley
4 tbsp mayonnaise
4 tbsp creme fraiche
1 tbsp Dijon mustard
2 tbsp hazelnuts
Trim, core and finely shred the cabbages. Combine with the parsley, mayonnaise, creme fraiche and mustard, then season well with salt and pepper. Toss and set aside for 15 minutes. Lightly toast the hazelnuts, then roughly chop them, and scatter over the slaw just before serving.
ROLLED SHOULDER OF LAMB WITH GREEN SAUCE
Serves six
150ml bulgar wheat
6 anchovy fillets
2 garlic cloves, peeled and finely chopped
zest of 2 lemons
small bunch fresh thyme, picked
2kg shoulder of lamb, boned but not rolled
3 bay leaves
glass white wine
1 tsp cumin seeds
Generous handful each of mint and coriander (you can include the stalks and, if you are lucky enough to get them, the roots of the coriander)
1 green chilli, seeded and chopped
2 garlic cloves, peeled and finely chopped
pinch of sugar
juice of 1 lemon
Boil the bulgar wheat in salted water for 10 minutes. Drain, refresh under cold water and place in a bowl. Roughly chop the anchovy fillets, then combine with the garlic, lemon zest, thyme and bulgar wheat.
Spread the meat out, skin side down, and season well with salt and pepper. Spread the mixture inside the meat, roll up and tie with cotton string.
Preheat the oven to 220 degrees/gas seven. Put the meat on the bay leaves and roast for 30 minutes, until well browned. Pour in the wine and an equal quantity of water. Turn the oven down to 150 degrees/gas two and roast for 45-60 minutes (depending on how pink you want your lamb), basting two or three times. Remove and allow to rest for 15-20 minutes.
Roast the cumin seeds in a hot dry frying pan for 30 seconds. Roughly chop the mint and coriander, then combine with the cumin, chilli, garlic, sugar, lemon juice and a seasoning of salt. Serve with the lamb.