Hugo Arnold and Mary Dowey suggest palate revivers for post-Christmas taste fatigue
The big day is almost here and before most of us is a sea of roast meat, every trimming you can think of, and a few you probably haven't. Despite all my best intentions, I will pat my stomach and regret the overindulgence, but hey, it's Christmas. To revive the tastebuds, I plan to reach for the spice rack and take inspiration from the sunshine of southern Spain or north Africa.
In the cuisine of these regions the marriage of herbs and spices works to unbelievably good effect. The stronger focus on vegetables means you get a robustness of flavour, while at the same time lighter eating. Be brave; go for one course and follow it with a salad - and have all your guests sigh with relief.
CHICKEN AND AUBERGINE TAGINE
serves 4
2 medium sized aubergines
olive oil
2 garlic cloves, peeled and finely chopped
1 onion, peeled and finely chopped
1 tsp paprika
half tsp ground ginger
pinch of cayenne pepper
pinch of ground cinnamon
1 tin tomatoes
3 lemons
1 chicken, cut into 8 pieces and backbone removed
8 prunes
bunch of parsley
1 packet couscous
bunch of spring onions, trimmed and sliced
2 tbsp chopped coriander
Cut the aubergines into two-centimetre cubes (a bread knife is useful to slice this tricky vegetable). Place in a colander and sprinkle with salt (this is not to reduce bitterness, but to ensure it cooks properly). Set the cubes aside for 20 minutes, then rinse, drain and pat them dry. Drizzle four tablespoons of olive oil over them and grill for 10-15 minutes, turning once or twice, until golden brown. Set aside.
Put the garlic, onion, paprika, ginger, cayenne pepper, cinnamon, tomatoes and the zest from the lemons into a large pot with 500 millilitres of water. Add the leg and thigh chicken pieces (holding back the breast pieces), and the prunes and slowly bring to simmering point. Skim the scum from the surface and simmer uncovered for 45 minutes, or until the chicken is cooked. Add the breast pieces after the first 15 minutes. Remove the chicken and prunes (which will largely have fallen apart) and keep warm.
Reduce the remaining mixture for 15 minutes over a moderate heat, stirring to prevent it sticking. Add the juice from two of the lemons and a generous handful of chopped parsley. Replace the chicken and heat through. If you want to prepare this dish in advance, stop at this point, reheating the chicken gently and thoroughly in the liquid.
Prepare the couscous according to the instructions on the packet, stir in four tablespoons of olive oil, juice from the remaining lemon, spring onions and coriander. Season well and serve with the chicken.
harnold@irish-times.ie
...and drinking
If you have already bought all the Christmas dinner wines, taking last week's advice to sort the main event out early, well done. It's a lot more than I have managed myself. But before smugness sets in, there is one further issue to ponder. What are you and your household, your visitors and any passing strays going to drink the next day. . . and the next? Are there a few bottles under the stairs to revive jaded palates and cheer up the remains of The Dinner? Here are a few ideas:
FUN FIZZ
Pink and red sparklers are suddenly in fashion - the red ones terrifically festive looking and great with turkey leftovers. Look out for Australian sparkling Shiraz or this fruity northern Italian.
Malvasia di Castelnuovo don Bosco, Bava NV. Red fizz packed with ripe berry flavours. Tasty on its own, can cope with cold turkey plus cranberry sauce, stars with red fruit or chocolate desserts - and it's only 7 per cent alcohol. From Berry Bros, Harry St, €15.95.
REVIVING WHITE
When they say they can barely face another drink but, oh all right, twist my arm, what suits best? Reach for refreshing Australian Riesling or Alsace Pinot Blanc.
Mitchelton Blackwood Park Riesling, Central Victoria 2003/4. Great value Riesling with lovely tropical fruit tones and a zesty lime finish. Slips down easily by itself or with light food (Chinese or Indian especially - spice up those turkey remains!). From Dunnes Stores, €9.99.
Paul Zinck Pinot Blanc Prestige, Alsace 2002. See Bottles of the Week.
JUICY RED
It's refreshing, moreish and just the ticket with cold turkey and ham. Regions to consider: the Loire, Beaujolais and Burgundy.
Domaine Le Petit Bondieu Bourgueil 2002. Loganberryish Loire Cabernet Franc at its most appetising - made for cold meats. From Bubble Brothers, Marina Commercial Park, Cork; Urru, Bandon; O'Callaghans, Mitchelstown; Mortons, Galway, about €12.95.
Domaine Charles Thomas Savigny-les-Beaune Les Planchets 2000. Well-priced Burgundy with beautifully pure red fruit allure. From Brechin Watchorn, Ranelagh; Donnybrook Fair, Donnybrook; McCabes, Mount Merrion & Gables, Foxrock; Karwigs, Carrigaline; Vanilla Grape, Kenmare, about €25.
Georges Duboeuf Brouilly 2003. See Bottles of the Week.
PACIFYING PORT
Always good to have to hand, either to round off a meal or for late-night armchair indulgence.
Niepoort LBV 1999. Try this luscious, heady late-bottled vintage from acclaimed producer Niepoort with a few really good chocolates. Mmmm! From Mitchells, Kildare St & Glasthule; Bin No 9, Clonskeagh; Michael's Wines, Mount Merrion; Grape Escape, Lucan; Wicklow Wine Co; Wine Cluster, Moycullen; Probus, Oughterard and others, half bottle €10.50-€10.95, full bottle €19.50-€20.50.
Tawny Port, 20-year-old. Delicate nutty flavours and a lively, palate-cleansing finish should convert even entrenched port sceptics. From Marks & Spencer, €26.50.