Orange parade: It's the time of year to roast, stew and butter carrots, writes Hugo Arnold
A young carrot, steamed when it is fresh from the ground, with nothing more to accompany it than some crystals of salt and a hunk of good butter, is a key taste of summer. By this time of year, however, carrots tend to have grown short and stumpy, with slightly rougher skin, and, although their flavour has become more pronounced, their sweetness is on the wane. Come late winter and they will have lost most of their charm, and will need long, slow cooking. Even then, though, they will add colour to an otherwise dull plate. Think of a thick beef stew: it is the carrots that stand out.
Also, try roasting them, on a large roasting pan, with olive oil and lots of salt and pepper. If they are not too thick they will need about 40 minutes; you can add whole garlic cloves 15 minutes before the end.
Carrot puree comes up trumps on both colour and flavour, particularly when teamed with lots of butter and herbs.