I’ve been trying to create savoury dishes with rhubarb for years now and it always ends up the same way. Roast pork with rhubarb compote, spiced rhubarb with chicken and so on. Nothing that really involved rhubarb as part of the main dish with a starring role, it was always a supporting side dish. That was until I decided that rhubarb would be the perfect thing to cut through fatty lamb.
Through extensive research (cooking and eating) I found the most perfect dish for savoury rhubarb, in fact it is one of the most delicious lamb dishes I have ever eaten. It is Persian Lamb and Rhubarb Stew, also known as Khoresh ’eh Rivas or Reevaas. There are many different types of khoresh, it literally means “meal”, but they are not as heavy as our stews would be, rather they are made with herbs, spices and many ingredients that create layers of pleasant sourness, fresh bursts and warming slow cooked oils. But like stews this tastes even better gently reheated the next day.
In much the same way that preserved lemons play a key role in a chicken tagine, the rhubarb provides a welcome piquancy and balances out the rich slow cooked lamb.
The herbs are fried in this dish, don’t be tempted to skip this step as it adds to the dish immeasurably and is a really great way to handle herbs. I tend to be careful with my herbs, keeping them as fresh and bright as possible but the smells and flavours that are released when fresh mint leaves are fried in hot oil is just wonderful.
Paired with Persian rice that has been scented and coloured with glorious saffron threads, this is the food of feasts.To make the saffron rice just leave a pinch of saffron threads to soak in some boiling water before using, then sauté a chopped onion in butter, add 2½ cups basmati rice and 4 cups of water including the precious saffron water. Cook till just done and scatter pistachios and pomegranate arils over the top before serving with this beautiful Khoresh.
Persian Lamb and Rhubarb Khoresh
Serves 4-6
1 large onion, halved and sliced
1 tsp ground turmeric
450g stewing lamb, diced
2 cloves garlic, crushed
1 tsp finely grated ginger
3 cloves
½ tsp cinnamon
500ml chicken or vegetable stock
Sea Salt and black pepper
10g fresh mint leaves, chopped
10g fresh parsley, chopped
4 stalks of rhubarb, about 300g, cut into 3” pieces
Olive oil
To serve: a green herb salad and saffron rice
Method
Heat 2 tbsp oil in a large heavy based pan. Add the onions and sauté for a few minutes before adding the turmeric. Stir to combine then add the lamb. Increase the heat a little to brown the lamb and cook for five minutes, moving every few minutes. Add the ginger and garlic and cook for a minute before adding the cinnamon, cloves and pouring in the stock. Season with salt and a little pepper then increase the heat and bring to the boil. Place a lid on the pot and lower the heat to a simmer, for an hour minimum till the meat is tender.
Meanwhile heat 2 tbsp oil in a frying pan. Sauté the parsley and mint for 2-3 minutes until the herbs are fragrant and darkened slightly. Add the herbs to the pot with the lamb along with the chopped rhubarb. Gently mix. Partially cover the pot with the lid and simmer for a further 10 minutes until the rhubarb is cooked. Avoid over cooking it as the rhubarb is so delicate. Taste and adjust the seasoning before ladling over the hot saffron rice.
