Asparagus is here, but unfortunately it’s not to stay. Of all the things they plan, asparagus must give the most grief to its farmers. It takes at least three seasons to get the ground right before it starts to produce and, even at that, harvesting is erratic.

Over the past few weeks, we’ve had lovely asparagus coming into the restaurant from Drummond House. Famed for its garlic, it also produces a small amount of asparagus every year. Asparagus is one ingredient I always look forward to each year because its season is so short. Between four and six weeks on the menu is probably the best we can hope for at the restaurant.

We always cook it simply, either blanching it very briefly in boiling water or cooking it in a little butter over a gentle heat. Grilled is also good if you have a griddle pan. Asparagus needs only a minute or two at most so be careful not to leave it too long on the heat. Dressed with a little vinegar or lemon juice and seasoned with some coarse sea salt, I don’t think anything else is needed.

Asparagus pairs beautifully with white fish, so why not poach a little pollock (2-3 minutes in barely simmering water)? Hollandaise is the classic sauce for asparagus so why not try a wild garlic variation on the old classic? It’s nice and sharp.

Blend 100g of wild garlic leaves into 200ml of oil and warm in a small pot over a low heat. When the herb separates, strain. Warm four egg yolks in a bowl over simmering water. Whisk in the oil a little at a time until it emulsifies. Season with a nice herb vinegar such as tarragon and finish with some sea salt. If the sauce is too thick, whisk in a little water. You can also add in some finely chopped fresh wild garlic but be careful to check the taste as it’s strong stuff. Poach fish and grill asparagus. Cover the lot with the wild garlic hollandaise. A seasonal supper fit for king or queen.