MONITOR:Pulses may call to mind soups and stews, but don't forget the myriad health benefits – not to mention taste sensations
IT IS DIFFICULT not to be tempted by thoughts of grilled meat as temperatures rise and days get longer. We all dream of eating outdoors, and this is easily the most satisfying and easy ingredient for those on barbecue duty. Unless you are a vegetarian, that is.
There is a growing interest here in other cultures and cuisines, as well as a rise in gluten intolerance – which, in Ireland, is becoming quite prevalent – while health concerns are leading many to look at the enormous attractions of pulses. “Ah, soups and stews,” I hear you say – not exactly top of the list as we head into what we all hope will be a spectacular summer. But pulses do not need to be about wet and wintry dishes. In countries where pulses are popular, temperatures can soar. Think Mexican, for example – a cuisine that is gaining traction here and, while not by any means exclusively pulse-based, certainly looks to lessen the reliance on meat. Combined with salads, herbs and salsas, there is more than a hint of sunshine food here. And for those who think Indian food is all about chillies, dive into this world of spice-driven variety for the kind of food that is perfect for a sultry hot day.
High-fibre, high-protein, low-fat legumes mean you can move meat away from the centre of the plate. There is no necessity to eliminate meat altogether, but using pulses means it can play a far less substantial role. “For shame!” some might cry, dreaming of seared steak – but for many of us, there is both a desire and a need to mix and match and be more innovative.
On a recent trip to Italy, an afternoon was spent roasting a whole lamb, but what intrigued was the combination of a farro salad, vignole (a combination of artichokes, asparagus, broad beans and leeks, lightly braised in olive oil), roast potatoes and an aubergine dish. We barely had room for a few slices of meat on each plate and, as a consequence, fed 28 and we had food left over. Did the lamb taste better due to its paucity? I thought so, but what delighted was enjoying a meal so largely based on vegetables.
Cost is also a factor. Using lentils, chickpeas, haricot and cannelini beans, not to mention kidney, black-eyed and mung beans, goes a long way to lessening the cost of a meal. And these ingredients can be fashioned into anything from salads to salsas, breads and cakes. Think lentil loaf if you must, but I am more for the likes of paratha and chapati, or dressing pulses with spiky coriander and mint, spring onions and grated raw vegetables. A tortilla filled with this and a few strips of grilled meat makes for quite a treat on a hot spring day.
And, while you may think there is carbon footprint guilt incurred in the transportation of pulses, these foods positively contribute to the environment by putting nitrogen back into the soil. Global concerns about health and environment greet us all daily and this is a family of simple ingredients that tangibly contribute positively to both.
So skip the soups and stews, cut down on the meat order and get soaking. Most pulses require a bit of forward planning, but will reward with multiple flavours and uses that will outlast even the hottest summer. Praying for good weather is probably a good idea too, but a visit to a health food store to stock up on bags of food this good can provide variety and pleasure in equal measure, not to mention health benefits.
For a modern take on pulses, it's hard to beat the visually stunning and innovative recipes in Ottolenghi: The Cookbookby Yotam Ottolenghi and Sami Tamimi. For something closer to home, Denis Cotter's Paradiso Seasonsis also rewarding.
