It happens to the best of us. You’re out with friends and the conversation is flowing. All seems right with the world. Next thing, you hear yourself saying “Come for lunch on Sunday, and bring the gang while you’re at it”. It’s only when you get home that it sinks in: you’re cooking for a small army. In two days’ time.
And you don’t have a clue what’s on the menu. All you know is that it has to please everyone.
If this sounds familiar, then you have my sympathy, because despite my best efforts to abstain from such tomfoolery (and occasional protestations from the husband), this kind of thing is something I’ve long been prone to doing.
It seems I can’t help myself. Casual gatherings of friends and family can be a lot of fun, after all.
But like most people, I get stumped. I want to try something new but resolutely cling to the old reliables.
Sunday lunch, when it gets sunnier, demands something a bit lighter than a roast with all the trimmings. Or a stew, unless I am simply re-heating, as this might mean hovering over the stove so long that I miss all the action – and gossip – at the table. What’s required is food that is easy to prepare, won’t spoil if someone is running a bit late and, importantly, appeals to most palates, young and old alike.
So on these occasions I often turn to chicken. Okay, so chicken can be a bit, well, chicken. But there’s no doubt that it’s a companionable foil for other, more distinctive flavours – the aniseed hit of fennel, say, or fragrant spices such as cumin – that bring out its subtle, comforting flavour. And even if they’re fussy about fish or red meat, most people will happily chow down on some chicken.
This week I have two very different ways of preparing chicken for a crowd.
The first is a bake that takes its inspiration from Turkey (the country, not the meat, ahem), with subtle undertones of mango powder and turmeric.
If you can’t get mango powder, add a little more lemon juice. This is one of those useful, throw-it-all-into-one-dish recipes that ensures that cooking for more than four will leave you serene rather than shouty.
The second is a rich, nourishing soup packed with vegetables, pasta and fresh herbs. The chicken is cooked first by simmering it whole for 60 minutes, resulting in succulent, moist flesh that is soothing and satisfying.
You’ll find vine leaves in most good delis, although I ended up getting some stuffed vine leaves and simply scraped out the rice and used the leaves on their own. They lend a perfect twang to this dish and a bowl of this followed by a cheese board would keep everyone very happy. It is a gentle, tasty dish that will keep even the fussiest eaters coming back for more. Who says feeding the masses has to be hard?
