At some point in the 19th century, Cork was the capital of corned beef. Unfortunately it was not the people of Ireland who got to eat this tasty treat; it was destined for the British empire. Irish corned beef was used and traded extensively from the 17th century to the mid-19th century for British civilian consumption and as provisions for the British naval fleets. As more new books emerge on British imperial food policy, it will not shock many readers to know how much food left Ireland during the Famine in the service of the empire. Some argue beef farming contributed to the potato famine, because all the good land was used for cattle, thus leaving little choice for Irish farmers.

Corned beef (corns were large salt crystal) suited long ship journeys due to its preserved qualities. With the advent of canning, corned beef would keep even longer and became a stable of war. Eating canned beef on the battlefield was a common occurrence before going over the top.

Corned beef was also a staple of my own childhood. Corned-beef sandwiches found their way into my school lunchbox more than once.

The revival of corned-beef came with the advent of the Reuben sandwich, brought about by hipsters all over the world. The Reuben sandwich is an American hot sandwich composed of corned beef, Swiss cheese, sauerkraut and Russian dressing, grilled between slices of rye bread. However, most places I’ve eaten a Reuben sandwich in serve it with pastrami, which, although perhaps cooler, is technically not a Reuben.

Both cuts of beef are cured, which means they’ve been brined in a saltwater solution. The brine often includes spices and seasoning such as juniper and peppercorns. The cooking process differs after the curing. Corned beef is boiled, whereas pastrami is traditionally smoked.

One of my favourite ways to consume corned beef is with poached eggs and rye sourdough toast. Topped with some fresh watercress, you have a wonderful Sunday brunch. Always source your corned beef from a butcher.