Undervalued and underappreciated, carrots never seem to get the recognition they deserve. Although best known as orange, they come in blue, yellow, white and purple varieties. It is said that the orange carrot we know emerged in Holland in the 17th century as a tribute to William of Orange. Whatever about that, orange carrots did triumph in the succeeding centuries.
As well as their root, carrots are highly prized for their green tops (which are related to parsley, fennel, dill and cumin) and their seeds. Indeed, before the Middle Ages, they were used mostly for these two things. Perhaps this is why the orange carrot defeated its coloured counterparts, as it is sweeter and often less woody. We are accustomed to pan-frying meat but we are less familiar with doing this with vegetables. However, if you want your them to taste like meat (who doesn’t?), I recommend pan-frying in butter. Here’s how it goes.
Give four organic carrots a clean (no need to peel). Heat some light rapeseed oil in a medium-sized frying pan and place the carrot into the pan. Season with some fine sea salt. Sear the carrot on all over until its nicely browned, then get a generous lump of butter and slide it on to the pan. When the butter turns brown and foamy, baste continuously to allow all that nutty goodness to flavour the carrot. Lower the heat and continue to cook the carrot until you can easily pierce it with a knife.
When it is ready, remove it and place it on some kitchen roll to remove the excess butter. Carve it lengthwise. Suggested serving: mix a pinch of smoked salt into some crème fraiche. Place the carrot on the plate with a dollop of the smoked crème fraiche and grate a roasted hazelnut over the lot. Finish with a few choice chicory leaves and a little extra virgin rapeseed oil. If you want to add a little acidity to the dish, I suggest some apple balsamic vinegar.
