The march of the vegetarians and the vegans continues as we in the restaurant trade get more and more requests for food suitable for this particular breed of human beings.
Some may not know, but I was vegetarian for seven years between the ages of 15 and 22. Why did I stop? In truth, I could no longer remember why I had decided to be vegetarian in the first place. So I stopped. I suppose, too, I had changed in my belief regarding the consumption of meat.
From that point on, I decided to shift towards a more ethical understanding of meat. Of course, vegetarians and vegans will argue there are no ethics, because the taking of an animal's life is morally wrong. However, do they truly understand the effect of eating quinoa and avocado on the cost of human lives in countries such as Mexico and Bolivia?
It is well-documented for many years that a “western” vegetarian diet has its ethical issues as well.
The problem with eating a "healthy" vegan or vegetarian diet is that it massively relies on imports from a great distance away. What is better, local meat or an avocado from Mexico, in terms of the geo-politics of food? I would question whether it's possible to be an ethical vegan in Ireland, because you have no idea where your food comes from, in most cases. Of course, an Irish vegetarian is possible because we have a great dairy industry but we have no grain industry in Ireland.
All of the "trendy" grains are imported, and are without any sense of provenance. Quinoa – once a nourishing staple food for the poor in Peru and Bolivia – is now no longer affordable as it has become trendy on menus around the world. Imported junk food is now cheaper for them to eat. And if you have a quick look through brunch menus all around Ireland, the avocado is everywhere. It's not sustainable; it's a short term solution to feed a growing trend. People seem to have no idea about the conflict and strife avocados cause, from Mexico to Chile: death, deforestation, and soil erosion.
There is no easy answer and this is why I prefer balance.
When it came to writing the menu for our tapas bar (open 10 years this May), I wanted to make sure a large part of our menu was dedicated to vegetables, not only to placate the vegetarians but also because I love vegetables. Pan-fried beetroot with hazelnuts and sherry vinegar, and spinach with garlic, pine nuts and raisins are probably two of the our best sellers in Cava Bodega and the simplest to make at home.
Take some cooked beetroot and dice it into cubes. Heat some oil in a small frying pan. Fry the beetroot and toss in some toasted hazelnuts and a good splash of PX sherry vinegar. Season with a little sea salt and garnish with some chopped parsley.
For the spinach, it important you have everything ready before you start cooking (garlic blended in oil and toasted pine nuts). Heat some oil in a frying pan. Add your sultanas and pine nuts and the garlic oil. When hot, toss in a handful of nice baby spinach. Wilt very quickly and serve.
JP McMahon is a chef and culinary director of EatGalway Restaurant Group, which comprises Aniar, Cava Bodega, and Eat Gastropub.
