April is the last month in the first half of the year in which we can enjoy the native oyster, that national treasure that many of us seem to never try, which is unfortunate. Sunny spring days should be enjoyed with freshly shucked oysters and a little orange wine (or Champagne if you like).
There are very few foods that need nothing added. And yes, I know many of us like lemons and Tabasco when it comes to oysters (just as much as I enjoy my seaweed), but a naked oyster is truly a remarkable thing. Its saline majesty is unmatched in the shellfish world. Rinse, shuck, swallow: that’s all.
Of course, a dressed oyster is the next best thing, if you can’t yet stomach the thought of swallowing it naked. I try to forgo the usual three, that is, lemon, Tabasco and onions mignonette. They seem to dull the delicate nature of the oyster.
Wild garlic is still in bloom and baking the oysters with some wild garlic butter is perhaps one of the finest ways of eating them warm. Buttermilk is also an option: its creamy acidity complements the rich irony quality of this native shellfish.
There are many fishmongers now doing nationwide delivery and I’m sure they could supply you with a few natives before the shutters come down on this year’s stock. However, all is not lost. The Pacific oyster, which is available all year round, is there to placate any oyster addiction that may emerge after the end of April.
How to bake oysters with wild garlic
Blend 50g of wild garlic leaves with 200g of softened butter. Spoon this mixture onto the opened oysters and put them under a very hot grill for two to three minutes.
