Frugal feasts

FOOD: Healthy eating doesn't have to be about deprivation, it can be comforting too

POSH STUDENT FOOD Aubergines stuffed with mince and feta cheese. Food cooked and styled by Domini Kemp and Maisha Lenehan. PHOTOGRAPH: MATT KAVANAGH
POSH STUDENT FOOD Aubergines stuffed with mince and feta cheese. Food cooked and styled by Domini Kemp and Maisha Lenehan. PHOTOGRAPH: MATT KAVANAGH

FOOD:Healthy eating doesn't have to be about deprivation, it can be comforting too

THE WORST PART about trying to detox in January is that it feels like the time to stock up on warm wintry dishes (with the odd bit of stodge thrown in), rather than face steamed vegetables and brown rice. Giving up booze and sweet treats seems to be an easy enough task for most people, but often the excess of Christmas leads to a knee-jerk reaction of starvation and deprivation, the end result of which is a spectacular fall off the health wagon. Conscious of my own weaknesses, I look for dishes that are healthy and nutritious, with lots of comfort, rather than hard-core restrictions. So this red onion soup ticks all the right boxes as onions, along with garlic, are supremely good for your health. The Parmesan toasts give you that little bit of comfort.

Research suggests that regular consumption of both garlic and onions has been shown to lower high cholesterol levels and high blood pressure, and because they have anti-inflammatory properties, they’re considered to be cancer-fighting foods. In addition, quercitin and other flavonoids found in onions work with vitamin C to help kill harmful bacteria, making onions an especially good addition to soups and stews during cold and ’flu season.

Although raw onions may bring a tear to your eye, the more you cry, the likelier the onion is to contain even more beneficial phytonutrients. In fairness, I hate the task of peeling onions and garlic. I’m more then happy to slice them all day long, but peeling off the skin, especially if it is being stubborn, is a bore. And this recipe calls for an obscene amount of onions. Still, it is tasty and very healthy, low in bad fats and makes a perfect, one-bowl supper. It is also very cheap, which can’t be a bad thing at this time of year and seeing as you’re probably off the booze, it’s a perfect way to get rid of that rubbish bottle of red wine you’ve been given.

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Onions should be stored at room temperature, but to be honest, I always leave them in the fridge. Interestingly, they should be stored away from potatoes, as they will absorb their moisture and ethylene gas, causing them to spoil more quickly.

The other recipe is for a minced meat and tomato sauce stuffed into aubergines, with feta cheese. It’s what I would classify as posh, student cuisine (with Greek influences).

Red onion soup with Parmesan toasts (serves 4)

1 bottle red wine

4 bay leaves

Good few sprigs thyme

Good few sprigs rosemary

50ml olive oil

12 red onions, peeled and thinly sliced

8 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped

Salt and pepper

2 tbsp tomato puree

1 litre vegetable stock

2 tbsp balsamic vinegar

Put the red wine, bay leaves, thyme and rosemary in a saucepan and boil gently until reduced by half. Be careful as it can easily flame up. If it does, don’t panic. It’s just the alcohol burning off and as long as you don’t have anything nearby, or hanging above it, that can go on fire, it will just burn off after a few minutes.

Heat the olive oil in a heavy-based saucepan, big enough to hold all the ingredients, and sweat the red onions for about 25 minutes over a low heat, until they are very soft but not browning. Add the garlic, season well and then add the rest of the ingredients, including the reduced red wine. Simmer gently for another 15 minutes and taste. Adjust the seasoning and serve ladled onto the Parmesan toasts.

Parmesan toasts

4-8 slices of sourdough, baguette or country bread

Olive oil

Few cloves garlic

150g Parmesan

Heat an oven to 150 degrees/gas three. Brush the bread on both sides with the olive oil and bake them for about 15 minutes until they are starting to turn golden brown. You may have to turn them halfway through cooking. Grate the cheese and sprinkle it on top of the toasts and then continue to bake until the cheese has melted. These can be done ahead of time and re-heated for a few minutes in the oven before serving.

Stuffed aubergines (serves 4-6)

4 aubergines

Salt and pepper

150ml olive oil

1 onion, peeled and diced

4 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped

600g mince

750ml passata or 2 tins of chopped tomatoes

2 tsp caster sugar

Worcestershire sauce

170g feta

80g Parmesan

Chopped parsley

Heat an oven to 180 degrees/gas four. Cut the aubergines in half lengthways and score the flesh crosswise, diagonally, without cutting all the way through. Brush the aubergines very generously with half the olive oil, season well and bake them for about 30 minutes, until the flesh is soft and mushy and starting to colour. Allow them to cool while you get the sauce underway. Heat the rest of the olive oil, and sweat the onion and garlic until they are soft and just starting to brown. Add the minced meat and break it up with a wooden spoon. When it is cooked through, add the passata or tomatoes. Turn up the heat and add the sugar and a few splashes of Worcestershire sauce.

When the sauce starts to bubble, turn down the heat and cook gently for 10 to 15 minutes before tasting, to check the seasoning. If you are happy with the flavour, roughly chop the feta and add to the mince. Scoop out the aubergine flesh and roughly chop it and add to the mince. Check the seasoning again and when you’re happy with it, put the aubergines in a shallow gratin dish and spoon the mince mix on top. Sprinkle some Parmesan on top and bake for about 30 to 40 minutes, until the cheese has melted and the aubergines are piping hot.

Serve with some parsley sprinkled on top, along with a green salad and crusty bread. dkemp@irishtimes.com See alsoitsa.ie

Domini Kemp

Domini Kemp

Domini Kemp, a contributor to The Irish Times, is a chef and food writer