This week’s recipe is the Anglo-Indian curried rice dish kedgeree. This was traditionally served at breakfast, but I find it perfect for brunch or dinner. It’s nutritious, quick to make and tastes amazing, with so many different flavours.
I’ve made much more elaborate versions of this dish and I was delighted to discover that this pared-back recipe is equally delicious. I’ve kept all of the elements that you would expect from a kedgeree: the smoked fish, the spice-scented rice and the wedges of egg on top. Of course there will be some that are used to adding peas or having coriander as their chosen herb but that’s the beauty of this versatile dish. Tweak it to suit your tastes. Traditionally smoked haddock poached in milk would be flaked through the rice. My mother always poached the fish with a bay leaf and some peppercorns. In an effort to save on washing-up and time, I use some good-quality smoked mackerel or hot smoked salmon. Frank Hederman is my local fish smoker here in Cork and his smoked fish is always so tasty. His chilli-flecked mackerel fillets are ideal for this dish; they add some great heat along with a buttery melting texture.
The original Raj version uses leftover rice, heated gently with onions that have been sautéed in a pool of garam masala-infused butter. Butter would be my ideal option for this. If you don’t have any, then coconut oil adds a further taste of the exotic and works great with the spices. Olive oil or ghee can be used.
The key to getting this simple version tasting great will be to choose a good curry paste. I usually use Green Saffron garam masala spice blend for my curry dishes; it’s strewn with rose petals, freshly ground black pepper and warming cinnamon. You could create a paste with some of the ground spice mix, olive oil, a little garlic and some grated ginger. Add tomato purée or finely chopped coriander if you like. Or you could also use the Green Saffron jars of sauce, as these are similar to a paste and are full of spices, ginger and turmeric. The jalfrezi or tikka are perfect for this.
Children love this dish. I think they like the little hidden flakes of fish and the eggs on top, as well as the subtle heat from the spices. Each mouthful is different. Just make sure you remove any bones from the fish.
Saffron-coloured cold rice salads remind me of big get-togethers such as Communions or Confirmation parties when we were children. We would have to eat the leftover cold rice salad, studded with frozen peas and sultanas, for days afterwards. This led me to avoid cold rice dishes for some time. However, this buttery, spiced kedgeree makes a surprisingly good packed lunch, so keep leftovers for the following day. Just inject a bit of life with fresh herbs or a drizzle of oil.
KEDGEREE: SERVES 4
The five ingredients
- 350g basmati rice
- 2tbs curry paste
- 2 eggs, hardboiled, peeled and quartered
- 200g smoked, peppered mackerel fillets
- 4tbs flat leaf parsley, finely chopped
From the pantry
- 80g butter or 2tbs olive oil
- 1 large onion
- Salt and pepper
Method
Rinse the rice well then leave to soak in water for 30 minutes. Drain, then place in a large pan with enough boiling water to cover it by 2.5cm. Bring to a simmer and place the lid on tightly. Leave the rice to cook on its lowest possible heat for 10-15 minutes or until it’s just cooked but retains some bite. You should be able to fluff it up with a fork. Set aside and keep warm.
Place two tablespoons of olive oil or 80g of butter in a large, heavy-based frying pan. Finely chop the onion and add it to the pan. Sauté over a medium heat. Once soft, add the curry paste and cook for a few minutes before adding the rice. Mix the rice well to coat it in the buttery, spiced mixture. Add the flaked fish and heat through. Taste and season.
Just before serving, fold through the parsley. Divide the rice between four bowls and top with the eggs.
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