I once ate lunch with a woman who spoke at an incredibly fast pace and only slowed down to explain words to me. She was a friend of a friend and assumed I had no interest in food. I was too gobsmacked to intervene and retort that I actually knew what sashimi was and that I too understood the meaning of umami. The straw that broke the camel's back was her 10-minute explanation of spanakopita. I was fresh off the plane from Greece with memories of garlic-spiked tzatziki fresh in my mind.
I didn’t tell this woman how annoying or rude she was. Instead I ordered a dessert I wouldn’t usually have gone for and glumly ate it all until it was time to go. All the while she was remarking on how dry my tiramisu looked and did I know it meant pick-me-up in Italian? I like to think that now, 10 years on, I would speak up. I would praise her for her didactic approach to life but reassure her that she should settle down and enjoy her lunch. I think we would have got on swimmingly had I been able to get a word in.
I always think of that woman when I think of spanakopita. That filo-wrapped feta and spinach pie reminds me to speak up and be heard. Even the staccato rhythm of the word makes me say it loud and clear. Most foods carry some sort of association, some without us even realising. Cream crackers and hot chocolate remind me of doing my homework; sipping a mug of steaming spiced chai tea brings me back to Electric Picnic, sitting around a bonfire with no cares in the world. I love how evocative tastes and smells can be. I think home cooking is all about creating those memories. The old cliched notion of baking with grandma is one that few of us actually have, but I do think it’s great to slow down and spend time in the kitchen with kids, or even alone, when we can. I’m amazed how much my own children refer back to the times we’ve made things together. I have been presented with peanut butter sandwiches regularly since showing my three-year-old how to make them. I’m so proud but also getting a bit tired of peanut butter.
But back to Spanakopita. It can be made with frozen spinach that has been thoroughly defrosted and squeezed dry in a clean tea towel. Irish-grown spinach is very easy to come across at this time of year, however. Bags stuffed full of the bright green leaves are going cheap at markets all over the country. The only possible negative of fresh spinach is that it wilts down so much. As a result I always buy much more than I think I’ll need. Take care when seasoning this dish, as the feta is already quite salty.
SPANAKOPITA: SERVES 6-8
The five ingredients
- 1 large onion, halved and sliced
- 1.8kg fresh spinach
- 270g filo pastry, thawed
- 200g feta
- 3 eggs, lightly beaten
Method
Preheat the oven to 180 degrees. Remove any tough stalks from the spinach and rinse in a colander over the sink. Place the spinach in a large pan over a medium heat. Place the lid on and cook for a few minutes until the spinach wilts. Return the leaves to the colander and remove as much water as possible. Tip the spinach on to a clean tea towel and squeeze any remaining water out.
In the meantime, heat a tablespoon of olive oil in a pan and sauté the onion over a medium heat. Once soft, move to a large bowl and leave to cool. Add the beaten egg, feta and spinach. Mix well; I find it easier to use my hands for this.
Use a pastry brush to coat the inside of a 30cm x 20cm oven-proof dish with melted butter or olive oil. Layer two sheets of the pastry inside the dish, one horizontal and one vertical, with the side hanging over. Continue to brush the sheets with butter or oil and layer them all over one another. Reserve two sheets for the top. Spoon the filling into the dish. Season with salt and black pepper as you go. Place the final two sheets over the top and brush with butter or oil. Crumple in the overhanging sheets, brush with butter and bake for 30-35 minutes until crisp and golden. Serve warm.
Every Thursday we’ll tweet the five ingredients from @lillyhiggins and @irishtimeslife so you can have them ready for Friday. Email givemefive@irishtimes.com with your suggestions for recipes
