Other rituals may be less well-practised, but on Good Friday a lot of us still stick to the tradition of eating fish. Not eating meat on this day used to be viewed as a bit of a sacrifice, but nowadays plenty of us choose not to on a regular basis. The basic meat and two vegetables diet is another great Irish tradition that’s been given the elbow by many. Whatever your beliefs, it’s good to include fish in your diet and ease off on the meat when you can.
As a child I remember reading Helen Forrester's fantastic memoir Twopence to Cross the Mersey, set during the 1930s. She and her six siblings had to share a room in the Liverpool slums as her father had become bankrupt. I despaired that every time the father earned a little money they got takeaway. Spending that valuable money on fish and chips instead of buying a sack of potatoes and keeping themselves fed for the week stressed me out even at the age of eight. I always think of that book when I want fish and chips.
It’s such an easy meal to recreate at home. Fish needs very little work to make it taste good and benefits from not being encased in a greasy, heavy batter. There’s nothing wrong with takeaway every now and again, but I find it a better treat to pick out my own fresh fish and cook it at home.
Lately I’ve started buying fish at my local farmer’s market on a Friday. I usually end up with a huge bag of plaice that was caught that very morning for just €5. Skinned, coated in flour and fried, it couldn’t taste better and feeds all four of us.
There is nothing nicer than fresh fish. It should smell of the salty sea and not “fishy”. The eyes should be bright and clear, not cloudy, and the gills still pink. If you’re not confident about removing the skin, ask your fishmonger to do it for you. Large supermarkets now have fantastic fish counters where the staff are happy to help. For this week’s recipe I have chosen to use a meaty fish such as pollock or hake. Cod is the less sustainable option.
You can buy a nice tartare sauce, but I love making my own; it’s easy and tastes great. Mix 250g of mayonnaise with two tablespoons of lemon juice and half a teaspoon of Dijon mustard until smooth. Fold through two tablespoons of chopped gherkin, one tablespoon of chopped capers and one tablespoon of finely chopped parsley. Mix well and taste for seasoning. You could also use finely chopped dill or omit the capers.
One of the jobs I used to love doing when I was little was mixing the Marie Rose sauce whenever we had fish for dinner: squirting equal quantities of tomato ketchup and mayonnaise into a bowl, then marbling the two together until it became a satisfyingly flamingo pink sauce. As a small child this was the epitome of 1980s chic dining. why have mayonnaise or ketchup when you could have Marie Rose? Now there’s something quite comforting about it, especially when served with hot flaked fish. This week’s recipe is the homemade version of that childhood favourite fish finger sandwich. With crispy roast potato wedges and a flaky white bun, this fish supper is the ultimate treat.
THE ULTIMATE FISH SUPPER: SERVES 4
The five ingredients
- 4 fish fillets, pollock or hake, skin and bones removed
- 4 bread rolls or burger buns
- 4-6 large potatoes: Golden Wonder or Kerr's Pinks
- Salad leaves
- Tartare sauce
From the pantry
- Flour
- Salt and pepper
- Oil
Method
Preheat the oven to 230 degrees.
Scrub the potatoes and cut lengthways into quarters or sixths, depending on size. Place in a roasting tin and drizzle with a little olive oil. Ensure each wedge is just coated. Roast for 30-40 minutes until crisp and golden. Season with sea salt immediately. Turn off the oven and put the wedges back in to keep them warm, along with the bread rolls.
Meanwhile, pat the fish dry with some kitchen paper and coat in seasoned flour. Heat a heavy-based frying pan over a medium flame. Add a tablespoon of oil and gently fry the fish in batches until lightly golden on the outside and opaque in the centre. It takes three to four minutes each side.
Finally, assemble the burgers by filling each warm bun with a handful of leaves, a crispy fish fillet and a dollop of tartare sauce. Serve with the wedges.
Every Thursday we’ll tweet the five ingredients from @lillyhiggins and @irishtimeslife so you can have them ready for Friday. Email givemefive@irishtimes.com with your suggestions for recipes
