THE ARRIVAL OF the latest vintage of olive oil is awaited with great excitement in Tuscany every year. The new season extra-virgin olive oil is full of a particular flavour and fruitiness, which lasts about three months. After that the oil is still very good, but loses some of its initial freshness.
The most obvious use for the new oil is in salad dressings, but good quality extra-virgin olive oil is also wonderful drizzled over toast, soups, bean dishes, plainly cooked vegetables, grilled fish or red meat. A plain salad of lettuce or tomatoes is transformed by the addition of a few drops and a light seasoning of salt and pepper. This is a case where less is certainly more. New season extra-virgin oil is always used in its raw state.
The olive harvest begins in late October and continues until the end of November or even mid-December. The best oil comes from less ripe olives, although the yield will be less than from later harvested olives. Olive oil varies like wine. Depending on the climate, slope and aspect, each oil will have its own distinctive flavour.
In Italy, with one or two exceptions, olive trees will not survive further north than Tuscany. Even then, every 20 years or so, a hard frost will kill virtually every tree. Olive oil from Liguria is said to be the most delicate and fine, which is perfect with seafood. Oils from Verona tend to be richer and riper, due to the warmer climate (despite being the most northerly region).
Tuscan olive oil is lighter, and often has a distinctive peppery kick on the finish. This can be quite difficult to enjoy at first, but does really grow on you. The most sought-after flavour is intense but mellow, with a sharp, spicy finish. The flavour of really good oils can last in the mouth for minutes afterwards. The distinctive flavour is partly the result of the climate, but also the varieties grown in the region.
New season olive oil should not be kept in the kitchen, but at a cool temperature, around 18 degrees. I was told to store it where you keep your wine.
It is early days, but the 2010 vintage appears to be good for both quantity and quality in Tuscany. Wine importer Liberty is bringing in a range of four single-estate 2010 extra-virgin olive oils from Tuscany. All come from top wine producers. They are expensive, so use sparingly, but remember a few drops is one of the easiest ways to perk up many otherwise dull foods.
In addition, restaurateur Mark Shannon is serving his own 2010 extra-virgin olive oil – made at his family home in Italy – in his restaurant Bistro One in Foxrock. It costs €25 per 50cl bottle.
Capezzana extra-virgin olive oil, €19.99 per 50cl bottleThis oil is unusually deep green in colour (see above), with a lovely elegance. It is very smooth and lightly fruity.
Canonici River Café extra-virgin olive oil €19.99 per 50cl bottleThis has an amazing day-glo green colour; its flavour is rich, with intense grassy asparagus and olive fruits, with an excellent very peppery long finish.
Fontodi extra-virgin olive oil, around €18 per 50cl bottleThis is a more elegant style with aromas and flavour of asparagus and artichoke; lanolin smooth with a very pungent spicy finish.
Selvapiana extra-virgin olive oil €19.95 per 50cl bottle.From the coolest part of Tuscany, this has delicate finely balanced spice and pepper, with a sharp kick on the finish. The flavours linger for minutes afterwards.
These-new season oils are due in shops next week. They will be on sale at: The Ballymaloe Cookery School and Ballymaloe Shop, Shanagarry, Cork; Michael’s, Mount Merrion, Dublin; La Touche Wines, Greystones; Jus De Vine, Portmarnock; Fallon Byrne, Exchequer Street, Dublin; Donnybrook Fair, Dublin 4; 64 Wine, Glasthule
