Brunch is one of those like-it-or-loathe-it occasions. Two meals disguised as one, some might say, but it has its place. Pain perdu in French means lost bread, which at first seems a little jumbled in translation, but really it is fitting, as it is a dish best made with stale or day-old bread. Also known as French toast, it is perfect for a lazy weekend.
When I lived in France many years ago, I learned that French bread had a time limit and was best eaten fresh on the day it was made. This became cumbersome, as it meant daily trips to the boulangerie and also finding ways to use up crusts – a different life to the old sliced-pan version I was used to, but one I embraced.
Frugality is an art form, and using bread in desserts has been done for many centuries to prevent food waste. Treacle tart and bread and butter pudding are two examples. This week I am championing France in a hybrid of breakfast, brunch and dessert, using bread as a base and turning it into something fabulous with two of my favourite French classics: pain perdu and crème brûlée.
I’m using brioche, only for the fact that I love it; it is soft and milky and gorgeous in puddings. I don’t tend to have bits of brioche left over to use in puddings, I will admit, and so I buy it (or make it) just for this dessert, but you really can use any bready thing that has gone past its freshest – slightly stale croissants also work well here. Stale bread soaks up the custard much better, and the result, once baked, is soft and soothing and full of beautiful flavour.
The real kicker here? I cut a slit in each of my brioche slices and stuff them with orange-scented cream cheese before soaking in a vanilla and orange liqueur-spiked mix of eggs and milk. Omit the liqueur if you like, but it adds a delicious citrusy note and makes for a special brunch or dessert, whichever time of day you choose to eat it.
The crème brûlée element comes after baking. Once the pain perdu comes out of the oven, light brown sugar is sprinkled on top and scorched (using a blowtorch or under the grill) until burnished. Once it cools, it turns into a crackled top providing crunch and texture once cut into.
Enjoy the bake warm from the oven and relish in a taste of France.
Recipe: Crème brûlée pain perdu bake
