FOOD:MALTBY STREET MARKET is authentic London: rough around the edges and in the middle of what would otherwise be a very nondescript collage of backstreets. Yet these railway tracks are home to what has become a thriving haunt for all types of food. Saturday mornings see the railway arches lit up by a varied band of passionate, friendly traders who can satisfy almost any food craving.
Visitors will be rewarded for taking a punt on Maltby Street and leaving its more famous neighbour, Borough Market, for afters. Start your stroll with a welcome burst of caffeine from London’s coffee powerhouse, Monmouth, as you choose from one of their numerous blends. With espresso in hand, your senses will soon awaken to the sights and smells of Hasslacher’s strong South American hot chocolate, chicken marinating in home-made piri-piri sauce and scallops smoking on a grill in their shells.
Soak up the relaxed and friendly ambience and keep a special eye out for Monty’s Deli. Here, Monty’s grandson, Mark, serves up delicious Jewish soul food – home-made pastrami and chicken dumpling soup, made by following his grandmother’s recipe. “It’s not kosher but it’s proper Jewish soul food,” Mark says. “It’s very naughty and comforting. I have my regular customers here; people who are really interested in food and who are up for different experiences.”
“Londoners are always creating some lovely corners away from the attractions,” says Sebastian, of Comptoir Gourmand, a charming French patisserie that takes shelter at the end of the row of railway arches. “The city has changed a lot in the past 15 years – when I came here first I couldn’t find good coffee or croissants. Now we have people who know to come here for good food and it’s nice to talk about the food with them.”
A handful of Sebastian’s canalés du Bordeaux are a sweet ending to a hot lunch that should be eaten amongst the eclectic mix of tables, potted plants, antique radiators and bathtubs. It’s also a good idea to rest any less than Olympic-trained legs before venturing towards the sprawling, royal feast for the senses, Borough Market (Borough High Street).
A labyrinth of fresh fish, vegetables, fruit juices of all concoctions, fiery grills and of course, plenty of sweet treats, Borough is a great stop-off for a modern English afternoon tea. Pick up some crisp baklava and munch them with the crowds in the pretty grounds of Southwark Cathedral while you watch traders serve up the day’s specials? All that market-hopping can work up an appetite, and if you’ve been lucky enough to taste a slice of José Pizarro’s tortilla at Maltby Street, the only option for a sit-down meal is his restaurant, Pizarro, on nearby Bermondsey Street. The passionate Spaniard has conquered London in recent months with the opening of his tapas bar, José (Bermondsey Street), and restaurant, Pizarro, offering up a sumptuous slice of authentic Spanish cooking.
Pizarro grew up with an appreciation for quality ingredients from watching his mother and grandmother prepare the food that his father brought in from the family farm. His combination of good quality ingredients, cooked simply, with a menu that changes seasonally, has proved a winning combination and he has raised Spanish cuisine to a new level in the capital.
Don’t miss the jamón Ibérico, padrón peppers or pluma Ibérico on a visit to his tapas bar. If you want more of a sit-down meal however, the complimentary plate of seasoned cauliflower florets and radishes is a mouth-watering preview of what lies ahead in Pizarro.
If you’re looking for something a little more typically “British”, head to Dishoom (Upper St Martin’s Lane) where the chefs have taken back their commandeered curry and created an exciting 1960s Bombay-style café.
No visit would be complete however, without a quick stop-off in the grown-up restaurant of pop-up darling of the moment, Pitt Cue (Newburgh Street). Chef Tom and friend, Adam, first brought their version of American barbecue to Londoners in a van parked on South Bank last year. What was meant to be a summer fling turned into an unstoppable success and the young chefs opened their first, if tiny, restaurant in January.
The lamb sweetbreads are a favourite of the chef, but the crew outside are all waiting for their portion of pulled pork. Get there early, or get some sticky ribs to take-away, but make sure you taste the capital’s newest success story.
An alternative is MEATliquor (Welbeck Street) which is housed in a car park – yes, a car park – for some unexpected cocktails and unbelievable burgers.
