I had been yearning for a pie. And it turns out, they're a bit like buses. All of a sudden, there they are, all piling up at the same time. Butcher St Pie Company, a pop-up in Galway, was first to inflict pie envy on Instagram (thank you, Jess Murphy for that serious level of pain).
Clanbrassil House trotted out a tasty-looking smoky bean and cheese pie on their recent vegetarian menu, and Dylan McGrath lashed up a stunning picture of a pie when he relaunched the Fade Street Social at Home menu.
So, of course, how could I resist? And just to be thorough about it, I also ordered the dinner menu for one (€35), which is most definitely in the four-course category.
I know the pie bar is set sky high by Calum Franklin, the chef and king of pies at Holborn Dining Room in London. But I have high hopes for McGrath's pie. Not only is this pie a looker – golden pastry, pleated and crimped around the edge of a lid that begs to be cracked open to reveal the treasures that lie within – it is a full-on assault of rich, savoury flavour.
Yielding chunks of chicken, ham hock and duck liver that is seared on the outside and soft within, tumble out onto the plate, bathed in their own concentrated sauce that is assertively scented with tarragon. And just in case you have need for further ballast, there is a rich onion gravy that you can pour over, although I think this would be better poured over creamy mash.
This pie, which is to serve four, is so good that you might think it would overshadow the dinner. Not a chance. Meal kit nibbles are generally roasted almonds and olives, but here, puff pastry and Parmesan cheese sticks come with redeye mayonnaise, a David Chang bit of genius which combines the bitter, savoury flavours of coffee with sriracha. And the quenelle of smoked cod brandade, a delicate mousse with a dusting of egg yolk on top, is just delightful with the warm treacle brown bread.
For starters, there is a sizeable slice of terrine, a mosaic of chunks of ham hock, chicken and liver wrapped in green leeks and garnished with a few crunchy green beans which have been tossed in a nutty hazelnut aioli. This is the sort of thing you’d see on a Michelin-star value lunch menu.
The Hereford beef cheek does all the falling-apart thing that is expected of a piece of meat that has been slow-cooked in red wine for 48 hours, but it has not been cooked into submission. The rich, brooding sauce still has life, a spike of acidity keeps it in balance, and it is served with charred broccoli, crispy confit garlic potatoes and cep mayonnaise.
If you have room, because the portion sizes for all the dishes are extremely generous, dessert is a blood orange trifle, with layers of cream, orange curd, jelly and chunks of blood orange. And there are two squares of lemon white chocolate fudge to have with your coffee.
This meal kit is impeccable. There are loads of special touches, yet it requires a minimum amount of leg work. It is also very good value, although you may want to steer clear of the wine menu, which sits in between restaurant and off-licence prices.
Dinner for one and a meat pie for four was €59, plus €5 delivery.
Where does it come from: 6 Fade Street, Dublin 2; fadestreetsocial.com
THE VERDICT: 8.5/10 The pies have it
Difficulty factor: Reheat and eat, instructions emailed in advance and on QR code
Food provenance: Not listed, but all produce is Irish where possible
Vegetarian options: Truffle cheese macaroni, confit potatoes and hispi cabbage
Delivery: Click and collect, and delivery in Dublin (€5), on Friday and Saturday
THREE TO TRY
Butcher St Pie Company
Galway city; click and collect, Friday; bluegoathopshop.clickandcollection.com
Jess Murphy of Kai restaurant and Alice Jary of Ruibin post their menu on Sunday, so get in quick. Oaxacan lamb barbacoa, butter chicken curry and sag paneer are some of the creative fillings that have featured. It's €55 for a ready-to-bake pie, a growler of craft beer, potato, focaccia and dessert for two.
Glas
Dublin 2; click and collect, Friday and Saturday; delivery, Friday; glasrestaurant.ie
Perfect for the vegetarian or vegan in your house, the four-course menus are €38 for one person or €75 for two. They include: tasty nibbles; a starter such as smoked carrot, beetroot and potato salad; charred celeriac with dill chowder and pickled sea lettuce for mains; and perhaps parsnip cake for dessert.
Knead Pizza and Bottle Shop
Dublin 3; click and collect, Wednesday to Sunday; kneadpizza.ie
Recently opened above the Cat and Cage pub, the takeaway pizzas, €10 to €12.50, include: the Margh, with a vegan cheese option; a beetroot and Bluebell Falls goats' cheese pizza; a smoky option with smoked wild boar, smoked pork belly and Toonsbridge scamorza; and a weekly special. Sides include beef dripping twice-cooked chips.
