It’s almost two years since McMahons of Botanic Avenue began their slow and steady takeover of this north Dublin suburb – they have a spot at the nearby Glasnevin Farmer’s Market and are mid-expansion into next door.

Until then, it’s a bit of a squeeze – especially on a Saturday afternoon as the daytrippers descend on the Botanic Gardens around the corner. But outside, tables line the path, with blankets set out even at the height of this Irish “summer”.

For such a dainty little spot (the waitresses wear floral aprons and a bowl of knitted fruit and veg are on sale on the counter), McMahons has an unexpectedly confident menu and some adventurous specials.

Soups (€4.50), served with mini loaves of brown bread, come in flavours such as West African peanut or roasted fennel, Pernod and smoked salmon. Aside from its regular sandwiches, daily specials (about 7) might include things like beef short-rib with homemade horseradish creme or a caprese sandwich served on Arun focaccia. Sweet treats experiment with healthier ingredients like beetroot and avocado, but a lemon poppyseed cake with homemade lemon curd and lemon icing gets our vote.

A highlight on the lunch menu, though, is the goats cheese salad (€7.50). We know: we never thought we’d say that either. Yes, goats cheese has been doing the rounds for a good quarter of a century, and yes, it’s become an irritatingly stubborn staple of every vegetarian menu since it was decreed vegetarians shalt eat chèvre until it comes out of their ears. But this is something special. The baby salad leaves are fresh, the Fivemiletown cheese is both creamy and crumbly, and the beetroot – organic and roasted in balsamic – is just the right side of earthy.

Last but by no means least, toasted pecans are the final ingredient to balance the flavour and texture in a salad roasted, toasted and tossed to perfection.

The only downside is that they only accept cash, no cards, which means a frustrating loop around to the nearest ATM.